TOPIC:

Yesterday i've bought a very nice vintage blackfoot chassis with every part on it at the bay for about 35 €. I think it's a smart price, 'cause everything is fine and servos are included.
Now i'm waiting to receive the already sent package and looking around for a body!
First i thought to use a Monster Beetle but the Ford-Body has some nice facts like the grill, loading space, roll bar and many positions for lights!

Now i am looking for a Blackfoot body. New or old one but it's weird which i can use, 'cause their are the new foots. Their is a Vintage BF, BF III, King BF and Super BF and i'm gonna looking for which body i can use on the orignal Chassis.
Also i am new at using lights on r/c cars. Do i have to use a 4channel remote? Are there good looking lights for the roll bar, that i don't have to get the orignal one with the smiley-cover?
Are there any hints about the gear box, which motor i can use? 25T or more newtons?

Photos will follow, when i received the package!

I would like to recomment the BF III body thats the best looking of the BFs imho.
You just have to fill in some of the holes, and dont get the decals those are $$$.

And if you want it to look good make a velcro mount or magnets at the front so no mountsposts are sticking thru the bonnet.

Lights depending on your remote (flysky are causing some problems) you can get these

There's the Bush Devil too.
But that might not be the cheapest option...

Velcro is a good idea! I've also used it at my FRP Chassis for the electronic.
I won't use the original decals. I think i'll do some vintage spray job on it. Also the rims will get a metalic touch - chrome or mixed.
The red parts of the chassis will get completly black and on the wheels i wanted to print white letters like "firestone" or "goodyear". Classy
I am currently thinking about to let the antena looks like a vintage cb-antena.
This car has to be look true to scale as possible
Inside it will get my old 540 Sport Tuned for first and some ball bearings. Maybe later a 25t or more heavy motor - but first of all, the lights!

Be carefull if you want to use a "big" motor. the transmission is not the best quality on a black foot and others. The diff is not very strong

Postman delivered much more than only the DF01 Parts


Looks good at first sight


Like a new one, also the content of the gearbox!


What's that? Chewing gum?

Has anyone an idea to remove that? It' currently soaking in water over night

Cleaned parts



First result: The plastic parts are in a fine condition. One piece is broken but not a big problem. Here and there are leftovers of hot glue. The screws seems to be not complete but the rare parts are all there, without the bull bar and the servo cover. The gears of the gear box are nearly new!

oops no servo cover isnt that the part that keeps the front shock tower from breaking/twisting

If it really is "chewing gum", WD40 will have that off.
If it's hot-melt glue, your only option is to chip/pull/cut it off. Don't heat it, you'll make it worse.
Most glues & paints don't properly stick to wheels, most are polyethylene, polypropylene or nylon, so best removal method is to chip it off if it will.
If you want to try dissolving the goob, look for a recycling mark somewhere on the wheels first, &/or try your chemical/solvent somewhere inconspicuous first. PP, PE are ok with thinners etc, ABS is not. All are ok with brake fluid.
Anything that takes paint off will have any fake chrome off as well

waterbok, yeah, that's right I'll have to order this... especially against water/snow. Also the under guard is missing but that's a part which i can replace with something else.
The chassis is here and there enhanced. I have oil dampers and more screws than the original one and also, the motor is a johnson? wires missing... but hey, i have my 540 sport tuned.

What is the best method to get the dirt, oil, etc.. from the metal parts? WD40 also? Spray and clean or have a bath in it or something else? At the MR, i've used vineger.

WD40, diesel, central heating oil are ok with metal or plastic & will get off oily/greasy kak.
Use a domestic paint brush &/or toothbrush for stubborn bits.
Wash it all thoroughly in hot soapy water & a rinse afterwards to get rid of any oily residue - I use clothes washing detergent for this, water as hot as you can stand (Body needs to be done in cooler water or it might warp).

Don't use vinegar, it's acidic & will attack the plating on the metal parts, & any residue will rust the steel. It's ok for making brass & aluminium bits shiny, but make sure you clean it off well after with hot soapy water & a rinse