Waterbok - dimensions to reproduce the hex bits would be better in the first instance - there are going to be people that would only want them if they look exactly like the proper Tamiya thing.
I can always use those dimensions to come up with a cheaper easier to make, dimensionally correct but functional set for the people who don't care what they look like.
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Whilst I'm thinking about it, & just to check, what does the 5mm nose on the SD1 part engage with? The bits I've already done are exactly 5.00mm, but it's suddenly dawned on me that they might have ballraces or something fitted to them, in which case they'd be better off being toleranced slightly undersized, or they'll be too tight a fit in a bearing & you'd struggle to put it all together
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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HitnMiss engine
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Fff... What size bearing is it? - the length of the nose is gonna be important too.
I'll hoik them out of the bag & check a bearing can be manually pressed onto them in a mo (& make myself a note re tolerancing)
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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Nope, bearings are too tight to fit by hand, I'll have to give them a tickle to loosen the fit.
Whilst I'm at it, I'll be needing an accurate dimension for the length of the nose (Or the bearings will "bind" if the nose is too short & be sloppy if it's too long) - I'll need it measured to the nearest say 0.05mm (With calipers if you got 'em)
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
...
F2 axle drawing
...
Quattro radio lid
...
Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
...
Quattro resto
...
HitnMiss engine
...
Wild Willy resto
...
Mardave Cobra resto
...
Thunder Dragon resto
...
Grasshopper resto
...
XR311 resto
...
Modded XR311
...
Carbon 25th scratch build
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