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After my day of work, I went for another scanner session...
This time I used high accuracy in the capture (it was in standard accuracy last time). I started by capturing the body. For this I used the black support (black means the scanner will not capture it), as the body itself should have enough features to allow proper tracking easily.... I use some packages as support for the scanner or the turn table to take the capture at different height and orientations. I also put the body in different position directly on the turn table to add additional captures... Then I merged all the point clouds based on the features, and about 5 minutes later, I had a very nice body... I redid the same for the helmet, but with the white support with slightly better results on the scan itself than for my previous capture... I think I can still improve the support, so the bottom of the helmet is even better... But that's for next time... I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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They already look nice
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yes, plenty good enough already!
I'm still asking myself if there is way to get better definition. I'll tweek the edition, as I believe there is a bit too much of smoothing in the automated editing... In short there is room for improvement... Even though it's probably good enough, considering that most of the reproduction I saw relying on a silicon mould are not really giving much sharp edges... But clearly, this is on the sharp edges that the scanned file could be improved... I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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Try a black line with a pen between fingers and points of pens for the face. My colleagues uses round stickers (gommettes) to scan 1/1 cars. With a flat spray on some zones.
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I don't think this is the problem. I think it is smoothing in the post processing which is the issue...
NB : white primer was applied on both body and head before starting. And all edges avec the same loss of sharpness... I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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these are pretty good results and as you said, there is post processing you can tweak. I would guess the software is trying to reduce as many points in the model as possible.
What is the largest object that you think you can scan? I am guessing a car body is out of the question (even is painted properly). But scanning parts of a body or chassis to make new parts fit might be worth a try. |
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Johann, for bigger objects, I have no clue yet... I'll have to try. That said, the head dimensions are below what the specs tell for the minimum size of a scanned object... But just refering to the specs, for a car, it's probably a range or a miraco scanner which is required...
But lot of condition may apply to get a proper scan :
I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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I'm really puzzled by resin printing some times : I have around 1/8 print fails with standrad resin.
The kind of fails I can't explain : bed level is good because unchanged, next print with the same file is working. At this stage, I believe my bed might not be as clean as it should, but generally, ending a print, removing printed parts from the bed and start next print would work. Funnily, most of the times, the first print of a serie is always the one failing (the one after I cleaned the bed since last serie). Knowing this, I generally check my prints few minutes after the beginning of a print, to avoid loosing too much time and material... Let's see what happens for the test prints I launched today... I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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The test print to check the last scans was done successfully...
I rescan the head of the Super Wheelie differently, with a slightly better result again... The Big Bear driver figure scan is actually much better than what I thought it would be... I still wish to find another one in parts so it is easier to scan... Last the Hunter/Galaxy driver is in two parts, like the Super Wheelie : body and head... And the same process I used for the Super Wheelie head was used. I'm questioning myself about putting those on shapeways or cults3D to make them easily accessible... I buy kits to built and ru(i)n them
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