NiCd |
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5 | 15.6% |
NiMH |
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13 | 40.6% |
Lipo |
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14 | 43.8% |
Other |
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No votes | 0% |
Total number of voters: 32 ( Jack Willy Orz, cumminsdoc, Purple_rob, nivapilot, uncletom ) See more | |||
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NICD and NIMH as what I find in my mess...
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Oh Crap ! Poor Heli reminds me to my lil Alfa giulia M-Chassis
Sanyo batterys are great i got aa's (2700) in my radio even in daily use the last weeks i was discharching them because i was afraid the will go down when they stay such long my conrad energy (nimh 3000) are in age of almost 3 years and still take around 3000 mAh not bad but when they gone i will return to Sanyo batterypacks Onroad Pack: TL-01 Ford F-150 SVT /\ TA01 Nissan Skyline GT-R NISMO /\ TA03F Mitsubishi Evolution 4 (Rally) /\ TT-01 2003 Calsonic GT-R /\ TA02 (blue version) Calsonic R-33 GTR /\TA03F '99 Calsonic GT-R /\ GM TC4 '99 Skyline GT-R (roller) /\ TA02 Blitz Toyota Supra (Drift)(almost done) /\ FF02 Toyota Celica (W.i.P) /\ GP Racetruck (schaltgetribe 2 Gang+R W.i.P.) /\ Ownbuild Supra (FH Layout W.i.P.)
Offroad : Nikko Thor (Monstertruck) /\ TL-01B Baja King /\ Hitomi (Own Construcktion Scaler W.i.P) /\ AS-01 (reely version of TL-01B) Cross Tiger (actual just RWD) /\ P-440XL Reely Iron Breaker |
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Waterbok, how are you getting on with Sanyo high capacity NiCds? - I haven't tried Sanyo ones yet, but all the other NiCds over 1500mAh I've ever had have been pants.
I tend to stick to sub-1400, preferrably Tamiya when I can lay my hands on them
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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chargers -
I prefer run-back types, but in recent years I've been using a delta-peak type for speed/bashing, then use the run-back every third charge, to get rid of the memory effect imparted by the delta-peak charging sessions. The delta-peak has 3x current settings (1A, 2A & 4A) & will also slow charge. I usually use the 2A setting for stick packs, 4A just makes them hot & doesn't charge them properly. The 1A setting is handy for parallel-charging trannies when I'm short of time for slow charging them. I power the charger with a modified 12V/6A laptop power supply. The other charger I use is an ancient Acoms run-back type, hooked up to an even older 5A "model flight" transformer. The charger had to be re-cased back in the 80's when I was racing, due to catching fire (Like they all did). The case used to belong to a car-phone charger, y'know, one of those suitcase phones with a separate handset... I added an ammeter to the power supply so I could keep an eye on the charging current. It's good enough for every day charging, but I use a more accurate multimeter when I'm interested in more exact numbers
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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Nice old pellets box Eddrick. Are you a rifle man?
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How do you do to have a nice soldering between each elements?
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That one's for waterbok (or who else has good skills on the subject), haven't built a pack myself yet...
Another brand worth mentioning for NiCads is Hopf (German brand). I have two of these, too bad I messed one up by switching the poles and pumping in 2Ah. Killed at least one cell with that (maybe I can make 6V from it). |
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Last edit: by Edou.
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