TOPIC:

waterbok wrote:

my hobby room is only 4x3 mtr, but I still cant find my protective glasses

A buddy of mine has that exact machine u just bought. Still looks new after 44 years.



galaxy note edge hülle

Some new tools to add to the Unimat,



original 20mm block to get it a bit higher, might create enough room for a ball turning tool.



and an indexing thingie

waterbok wrote:

Some new tools to add to the Unimat,
...
original 20mm block to get it a bit higher...

Have you tried using the 20mm riser yet? I have one on the way & have been wondering how to give the toolpost & tailstock a corresponding lift

Not yet, to busy with karaoke and sake. I had my eye on the circular saw but missed out on a good deal.

The riser arrived so I used a suitable chunk of aluminium to give the toolpost a matching lift (a 4-jaw independent chuck is the most useful upgrade you can have IMO) ... 62mm Bush Devil wheel could be spun without the risers, but you couldn't get the carriage underneath & could only tickle the faces.

You could possibly get something up to 74mm in now, but only with only the tiniest bit of a tool showing in the holder.

Overall I think a riser will make the Unimat a bit more useable, but without really increasing capacity that much - you can't do anything to move the toolpost further away from the work, so that & the small chuck having a limited grip restrict capacity.

Couldn't you make an offset block that extends further back to move the tool holder back?

Martin wrote:

Couldn't you make an offset block that extends further back to move the tool holder back?

TBH I don't think it would help - things are so tight the top slide of the carriage would get in the way even if you could step the toolpost back a bit.

The motor has given up after a mere 40+ years, I suspect the insulation on one or more of the field coils is failing

This is hardly a complete guide, but it does at least give suggestions & have pictures - motor is a Chinese 24v DC scooter motor rated at 120W, along with a suitable PSU & speed control.



The motor has three mount holes but only one a time lines up with the Unimat bracket, and it's fitted (hopefully not too well) with a small pinion for a toothed belt. I needed to make a new pulley, so the motor is currently hanging on by one screw & the drive belt running on masking tape over the belt (which got burned off the first time I stalled the chuck).

This is as far as I've got, two of the wires on the speed control have failed so need resoldering, then the new pulley needs drilling & tapping for a grub screw, and the motor needs the existing pinion removing & the faceplate removing, drilling & tapping for another screw mount. I may not make a "proper" three step pulley for the new motor as I tended to only run the lathe at 1600rpm (middle step on motor pulley to middle step on machine pulley) anyway.

I did finish this - the unwanted pinion came off the new motor witth the aid of a 2-legged hub puller & a bit of angle iron with a notch filed out, the motor then had to come apart to drill/tap an extra mounting hole. It looks quite tidy fitted.

The separate PSU means it's no longer as compact as before, but I've fitted the speed control into a styrene sheet box stuck to the PSU, in practice it means I can plop the combined unit some way off to the right of the lathe in use, then unplug it for easier tidying away

Ace was planning in the same direction to save the old motor.
Do you still have to take a break for cooling or can it run longer?