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I don't see anything pertinent there, just an overview in the loosest general terms I have a QD "Sports" chassis marked with a "27MHz TYPE 2" label with with print on red, and an A/B/C switch. Powering it up makes the steering chunter away from interference so I believe it's working fine. I've tried it with a standard 2-ch 27mhz AM TX (Acoms technidrive) with all permutations of Xtal. My results were: setting
A B C
band 1 brown 26.975 no response no response no response
split brown/red 27.025 no response no response no response
band 2 red 27.045 no response no response no response
split red/orange 27.075 no response no response no response
band 3 orange 27.095 no response no response no response
split orange/yellow 27.125 no response no response no response
band 4 yellow 27.145 no response no response no response
split yellow/green 27.175 no response no response no response
band 5 green 27.195 no response no response no response
split green/blue 27.225 no response no response no response
Band 6 Blue 27.255 no response no response no response from this I conclude: - the chassis electronics could have failed (strong possibility, I bought it cheap for the gearbox and front end); - the TX could be duff (unlikely); - QD radio could be FM (no way to test); - Could still be AM, but operating in some different way from a standard 2-channel set. I think you're going to have to find a QD transmitter with the A/B/C switch if you want to keep the QD electronics in the car. Information on the QD electronics is very sparse, TBH the best info I found was an eight year old thread on here which concuded there was plenty of space for a servo, ESC & RX on the chassis & that was the best way to go.
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thanks for your response!
good info. I think I'm going to try differently. I solder the 3 wires of the potentiometers and then I switch left / right and gas brake the potentiometers are adjustable so I think I will be able to find a zero point in gas brake and search for another transmitter |
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It worked.
I soldered the wires from one potentiometer to another and then adjusted with the set screw. works perfectly now! The CPR-01 unit works fine on the 4.8v battery During the modification I had connected an 8.4v adapter to the remote control, but then I got no response. only when I put the batteries in the remote did everything work properly on the 27.045mHz
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That's perfect. You did a nice work. Congrats
The following user(s) Liked this: poebe
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The following user(s) Liked this: poebe
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And the good period I am sure. Same rzdio than the tamtech 1/24.
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