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Tell me about it - the Allen key is only fit for recycling, the screws aren't but better, and I've had to fettle every one (read as "sand & file out the gap") to make them stay on ... overall though, they're still better than the OE Tamiya black plastic ones that break, weld themselves to the wheel, or fall off & loose the pin |
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Metallugical analysis by eye is not really the way to go about it - but I don't think your hex driver is going to last very long - I don't see any evidence of heat treatment on the shaft or tip, I think any expense in its manufacture went on the "bling" handgrip
I've had sets or "RC Tools" by Fastrax and Core-RC - they both have nice looking aluminium handles too, but the business ends are pants - just a very basic chemical "blue" at the very most The best small hex drivers I've found are made by Wera - they don't look that good, but in the flesh they are much nicer to handle than the usual alloy RC tools, and they do seem to have had some proper heat treatment on the the tips - they don't round off the first time you put any torque through them. The only drawback I've found is they only seem to come in 1.5mm & 2mm sizes. |
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It should be HSS steel - and the shaft can be replaced so maybe I'll find me a Hudy that fits at some point.
At least I'll still have the nice handle if I kill the tip... Hasn't happened so far though. Knock on wood. Of the hexes, one screw's not taking the thread and the other one isn't a hex head anymore. Can't take either of 'em out. Two are still functional but I'm not even gonna try to bolt them down... |
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Nice! I got the screw out that went on a continuous roundabout by applying pressure on the other side with a safety pin.
One left - think I may have to drill that one... Edit - now I have to see if I still have a small enough drill for that. If I manage to get the last hex head (M2x3mm) out, I have a replacement coming in that's a bit longer too : I just won't be needing the hex driver for that. Second edit - got the last M2 in the hex out with some superglue on the tiny hex wrench! Now let's hope these stainless replacements are tough enough for the job... I think I'll switch to hardened grubs for other applications - to stay on topic. |
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Last edit: by Edou.
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I've got an imperial "Equivalent" key for shafted M2 grubscrews. Dunno what size it is, but it's JUST slightly bigger enough to be an interference fit in rounded grubscrews. Got me out of a lot of trouble that one....
However, my favourite trick is regrinding worn keys & forgetting to temper them afterwards (Grinding makes them hot enough to make them super hard....& brittle) & countless times I've cracked the tips off inside the grubscrew hex, then you're really stuffed, cos they're too hard to be drilled! (Next option, brute force & breaking stuff)
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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Went on a bike ride today to get me a Hudy hex driver for 2mm applications!
No fancy aluminium handle on this one but their famous spring steel tip nonetheless... I hope that'll keep me from snuffing any more hex head titanium screws. The guy at the LHS also gave me a brochure - coming Sunday the Dutch Tamiya Challenge is in town! I think I will be dropping by to have a look... |
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The best set of tools is the old red tamiya tools set the hexagonal keys in the kits are top too My set is more than 15 years old and just the box is broken(It doesn't support to be under my feet )Tools have more than 80 kits and are ready for screwing My rc dealer has hisone sincethe beginning of the shop and it is always ready for duty |
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