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TOPIC: Reissue of the RC10 gold pan?

Reissue of the RC10 gold pan? 6 years 5 months ago #25455

Original RC10 and RC10 Classic Differences
The ejector pin locations on all the parts will be different as a result of the new tooling. These are the small circular indentations found on the molded parts, which is caused by pins pushing the plastic parts out of the mold tools. Additionally, the "gating" of some of the parts has changed as well and will help in identifying original vs. new parts. The "gating" is where the plastic flows into the mold and the point at which you break it off from a parts tree or runner.

On most of the mirrored parts there is a small "(L)" and "(R)" molded into them to identify left and right plastic parts. This is not found on the original parts. Present on: transmission cases (interior surfaces), front and rear arms, front and rear arm mounts, front caster blocks, and steering blocks.

Steering assembly parts have a "(1)" or "(2)" molded to differentiate the duplicate parts in one tool. Not present on original.
Servo Mount: No need to drill any holes, comes ready to mount standard servos and mount to chassis.

Chassis: The battery cup holes have been moved further forward to accommodate the longer LiPo batteries. The chassis includes the Stealth transmission holes but does not have any letter stamping for identification. Holes for mounting battery sideways are included (primarily for nostalgia, since standard length LiPos are too long to fit sideways).

Nose plate: The "ae" logo has an engraved outline as opposed to an embossed/stamped "ae" logo.

Motor plate has holes for both 6-gear and Stealth transmission and has a slightly different curvature to the rear motor guard portion; best noticed by comparing the new and original.

Spine plate: Aluminum like the original; holes have been adjusted for optimal gear fit. (No more cutting away at the drive axle hole for better fit!)

ALL STAMPED PARTS ARE MADE IN USA!

Rear bulkhead battery enclosure bottom is cut out; only three sides will secure the battery. Original retains the bottom. Also the height of the new bulkhead battery opening is slightly higher to accommodate Lipos.

Antenna mount has a small lip in the inside diameter hole for the antenna tube hole to prevent the tube from being able to be pushed all the way through.

Rear arms have several differences. The first is that they are essentially a white version of the Worlds arm and also feature an "(L)" and "(R)" identification mark.

Nose brace tubes have a nicer natural finish than the original, and the screw holes have a slight chamfer.

Wheels: Difficult to tell the difference, besides just looking at the ejector pin marking and gating.

Shocks: Top-loading design like the later shocks but gold anodized. Utilizes O-rings in cap to seal.

Shock bushings are like the original top-hat design. Would have to compare to an original to tell the difference.

Shock collars are like the original collars without the built-in spring perch. Would have to compare to an original to tell the difference.

Spring cups are based on the later generation with the slot. Would have to compare to an original to tell the difference.

Shock Towers: Routed fiberglass like the originals, made in USA!

Turnbuckles (threaded rods) are made out of stainless steel now instead of Zinc plated to give the car a nicer finish as well as create a difference from the original.

Ball cups: They are the full hex ball cups.

Machined parts: A little more difficult to tell the difference, but typically the finish on the parts is nicer. All of the steel gears are machined tooth profiles instead of machined pinion wire which required filing and polishing - hooray! Unfortunately, machined parts can be counterfeit by anyone so there really aren't any distinguishing factors from the originals, other than typically the fit and finish is nicer.

Body: Window netting in original was defined by wavy horizontal and vertical lines. New version has straight lines.

Wing: Original "small" wing, side dams are a little thicker.

Driver: Original driver figure mold.

Gear cover: Based on the 2nd generation gear cover, it is strikingly clear while the original was translucent.

Headlights: Come ready to mount; no need to drill mounting holes.

Spur gear: The tooth count font and placement is different, and the pin-gating craters are of a different shape and location than in the original.

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Reissue of the RC10 gold pan? 6 years 5 months ago #25476

Arrived c. 1200, photes later :)

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Reissue of the RC10 gold pan? 6 years 5 months ago #25484

Ok, pictures....


Box:





Seal .. that's not going to last long ...





A bit lacking in wow factor on the inside ...




... digging a bit further:




Hit the chassis ... note poor standard of finish ... a bit of a deal was made that the stamped parts are made in the USA ... I remember when that used to mean something :(







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Reissue of the RC10 gold pan? 6 years 5 months ago #25485

Reached the bottom ...





Packing list is meant to reassure ... but with 14 items on the list and 23 discrete items and/or main bags in the box there's a massive whiff of BS...






It's Fat Stig! :D

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Last edit: by Jonny Retro.

Reissue of the RC10 gold pan? 6 years 5 months ago #25489

that will make an awesome thread ;) :y:

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Reissue of the RC10 gold pan? 6 years 5 months ago #25493

HI!... Hey J/R, I hope u don't mond but I posted your pics over at RC10TALK. They have been waiting for the 1st pics of the new RC10 by a consumer. I told them about your chassis. Here is one of the responses I got. :

"i would call the 1-800 number and talk to someone at associated and tell them your issue and get anther chassis. if they need pics then send em pics. i did that when i bought a traxxas boss mustang kit and told them the decal placement on the prepainted body looked really poorly done. they shipped me a new decal sheet no charge. I WOULD CALL THAT CHASSIS LOOKS LIKE CRAP BAD STAMPING!"

I would try that if I were you. They might send you a new one.

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Reissue of the RC10 gold pan? 6 years 5 months ago #25496

HI!... Your not the only one to get a less than perfect chassis. Other guys are complaining too....






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Reissue of the RC10 gold pan? 6 years 5 months ago #25498

Seeing that I'm not so worried about the inside of the chassis tub (even if it does look like an 11 year olds first attempt in the metalwork shop :whistle:), but I'm still less than happy about the underside ...

IMO it should have failed QC twice - the first time before anodising when the myriad of small scratches in random direction & the raised area of bog knows what spotted (& sent back for rework), and failed a second time when the anodising didn't come out even.

I'm pretty sure a 1-800 number isn't free outside the US, and even if they did send me a replacement I'm likely to get stung for import duties + fees on the way in. I could call the UK retailer I bought it from, but it's not their fault - they sent me a sealed, near perfect box.

TBH I'm thinking the first time it gets run on anything other than perfect carpet or a well manicured lawn, the flaws won't b so obvious :)

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Reissue of the RC10 gold pan? 6 years 5 months ago #25511

Call the UK retailer. If it's not fit for purpose, it's their responsibility. Let them sort it out with the USA.

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Reissue of the RC10 gold pan? 6 years 5 months ago #25579

HI!... O.k so I just bit the bullet and bought one. Should be here by next weekend. Paid $259.00 with free shipping. Going to build it and it will be a shelf queen. Deciding on how I want to build it. With vintage motor, and electronics or with brushless motor, ESC and dummy LiPo. Definitely going to get ball bearing throughout, I hate bushings. Once it gets here I will put up a build thread.

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