TOPIC:

Wat, A VW combi is never ridiculous...
I mounted a HPI one on my M01 in flower power hand made paint. It is very nice.

stingray-63 wrote:

Wat, A VW combi is never ridiculous...
I mounted a HPI one on my M01 in flower power hand made paint. It is very nice.

trop de Jack?

Juste passionné de combi et de VW vintage

Is this the recent Ebay one listed with an M38?

I've had a dig about in the drawings I did for some of the M38/Quattro bits I did, but somewhat uselessly, I don't appear to have kept the info for the switch stay or steering pin thingy

I'm fairly sure the switch stay was 1mm thick ally, & it wasn't that difficult to do (Or I would've drawn it...) I just copied the Quattro one. It's a bit fiddly & you have to be a bit careful with your marking out, but it's best to attack it starting with an oversize lump of ally & hack bits off, rather than trying to cut it all the right size& hoping it comes right when bent. I'm fairly confident it's within your capabilities, it's just time-consuming & requires some care. If you fancy having a go, but can't find some suitable material, gimme a shout, I might still have some.

The K8 I did was guesswork - M2 tapped, made of ally, O/D is 0.1 clear of the slot-width, length is 0.5 short of slot depth (The slot in the mating steering arm that is).

There was a man selling repro resistor plates on Ebay (Poss for Blazing Blazer?).
Failing that, gimme a shout & I'll measure mine & post/send a pic

I take it A7 rollbar is ABS with moulded-in 3mm/M3 steel wire? Just a suggestion, but how about use 3mm soft steel/stainless wire & sleeve it with silicone tube (Or heatshrink) before bending? I wouldn't fancy machining ally & bending it (Although you could drill/tap the ends & fit M3 steel studding instead of trying to do it 1-piece).

For the front bumper block, if you can get dimensions, I have ally blocks & a mill...
(It would have to be done with the round spigots as separate turned pieces though)

Er, thinking about it, the bumper block might be better in something soft like polypropylene, which I can also lay my hands on, in black (Don't think work has any white thick enough)

waterbok wrote:

A7 - rear roll loop/chassis body mount
do you have the driver otherwise get the one from the new jimny/VW T2 its on the sprue

...

I have the driver, but the only place I could find the sprue was at Seidel - their pic doesn't show the bonnet ducts & bar - I don't really want to part part with 9 EUR for the sprue & another 10 EUR for shipping to find it hasn't got the bit I want

eddrick wrote:

Is this the recent Ebay one listed with an M38?

I've had a dig about in the drawings I did for some of the M38/Quattro bits I did, but somewhat uselessly, I don't appear to have kept the info for the switch stay or steering pin thingy

I'm fairly sure the switch stay was 1mm thick ally, & it wasn't that difficult to do (Or I would've drawn it...) I just copied the Quattro one. It's a bit fiddly & you have to be a bit careful with your marking out, but it's best to attack it starting with an oversize lump of ally & hack bits off, rather than trying to cut it all the right size& hoping it comes right when bent. I'm fairly confident it's within your capabilities, it's just time-consuming & requires some care. If you fancy having a go, but can't find some suitable material, gimme a shout, I might still have some.

The K8 I did was guesswork - M2 tapped, made of ally, O/D is 0.1 clear of the slot-width, length is 0.5 short of slot depth (The slot in the mating steering arm that is).

There was a man selling repro resistor plates on Ebay (Poss for Blazing Blazer?).
Failing that, gimme a shout & I'll measure mine & post/send a pic

I take it A7 rollbar is ABS with moulded-in 3mm/M3 steel wire? Just a suggestion, but how about use 3mm soft steel/stainless wire & sleeve it with silicone tube (Or heatshrink) before bending? I wouldn't fancy machining ally & bending it (Although you could drill/tap the ends & fit M3 steel studding instead of trying to do it 1-piece).

For the front bumper block, if you can get dimensions, I have ally blocks & a mill...
(It would have to be done with the round spigots as separate turned pieces though)

I wouldn't say it was "with" an M38 - it was a 95% complete wheeler chassis with a M38 body on it & two sets of M38 rear wheels with a wheeler body, wheels & most of the driver, the lower wheeler bumper/splitter & broken wheeler bumper ... it looked a lot better in the listing than IRL


That was pretty much my plan for the rollbar - I just need dimensions & angles for it.


I'm thinking styrene for the bumper block - a flat plate with tubes glued in - it's about all my "lathe" can realistically cope with.

Probably a different lot I'm thinking of then. Fairly sure my brother would kill for a Wheeler!

Styrene bumper sounds like a good option, I mean I suspect it won't be getting hard enough use to be requiring anything more resilient.
Did you get as far as looking at the milling setup for the Unimat? Did the speed control help?

JR, I added some pics and a drawing in my previous posts.

waterbok wrote:

JR, I added some pics and a drawing in my previous posts.

Ta very much - drawing of the bumper block is top notch

I'm not clear on some of the other bits though (switch stay, resistor plate, roll bar) - have you got spares of these you are willing to part with? If so, how much (including shipping to the UK) do you want for them? Pls sent me a PM.