TOPIC:

I translated from my blog: reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2018/02/restauracion-reparacion-de-kyosho-raider.html
Sorry for my bad translation.

The car was like the picture: dirty, without motor, the speed controller did not work, tires that are loose from the rims, ..



I should clean and change the shock absorbers:


The car needs a motor. Before I must clean and grease:


Cleaning and whitening the wheels with hydrogen peroxide:





In the end, I paint the wheels with the white paint. I also placed a sponge inside the tires:



I paint the letters of the tire with the white paint:


I lubricate the transmission and the gears:



I place ball bearings instead of plastic bushes:




The motor is type 555 rewound by me so that it is faster:






I adjust the 15 teeth pinion:




Replacing front shock absorbers with other oil shock absorbers:



The rear shocks work well (they were previously replaced by the previous owner):



The receiver is Sanwa brand with the old standard; it is valid for an old Sanwa servo but is not compatible for a modern ESC:



I made an wire adapter for ESC (reversing + and - wires):



The car is already working well:



I will paint the body another day:

Nice restoration.
Did you put the wheels with the peroxide in sunlight? Without direct UV it doesn't work as well.

That's a cool car!
Nice work on rewinding the motor. How did you do that?

Hvery nice resto.

Yes, I put the wheels direct sunlight. Maybe, the hydrogen peroxide was not so pure and the effect was less.

Here , I explain how to rewind the motor:


reparar-cochesrc.blogspot.com/2017/10/rebobinar-un-motor-dc-tipo-rs-540.html (in spanish)


Rewind a DC motor type RS-540 (RS-555)



This is 555 motor : a little longer than a 540 motor and with 5 poles. I think it was the motor of a printer or photocopier (paper roller motor) and it's slow and silent: at 7.5V you get 1100 rpm and the current is only 80mA. I will disassemble it and change the winding to make it faster.

To open the motor, the tongues of the upper cover lid are unfolded or cut:





it has a 5-pole rotor (armature) and carbon brushes , very important to drive a large current.



I uncoil the first winding to see the number of turns: 160 turns and wire of 0.25mm. I cut the wire of the other windings directly:




Each winding is crossed with the previous one and the next and places two cores of the armature according to this diagram:




I'm going to use 0.65mm diameter wire and 9 turns for each winding. The first winding is already finished in the picture:







Since the rotor has 5 poles, between the brushes there are always two windings in series (18 turns). I ended up soldering each of the windings to the commutator, but before I removed the varnish from the tip of the copper wire so that the soldering is well done.




The re-winding is now finished:




I make a hole with a drill bit and put a screw to hold the lid:



According to the theory of the operation of a DC motor, I have varied the ratio of winding turns to 160/9 = 17 .

If I change the number of turns of the winding, the no-load speed in rpm and the current (no-load and with load) are multiplied by the ratio 17:

no-load speed: 17 * 1100 rpm = 18700 rpm
current: 17 * 0.08 A = 1.36 A

(web : mabuchi.com)




If I change the wire diameter of the winding, the no-load speed and the no-load current are
equal but the current with load and torque depend on the ratio 0.65mm / 0.25mm = 2.6:

2.6 * 2.6 * Load Current
2.6 * Torque




To check the results , I measure the voltage of the LiPo battery connected to the motor and the no-load current with voltimeter / ammeter and the speed of the motor are measured with a tachometer (optical probe) that obtains a relation: 1000 rpm / 0,1 V

I put a gear with a piece of aluminum foil in the shaft of the motor that reflects the infrared light.




The complete process is shown in the video and at the end, I am testing the speed / current:




The results obtained are: no-load speed (at 7.8V) 17,000 rpm and no-load current 1.64A . That is, about 2200 rpm / V which is the value of a stock RS-540 motor although this motor will have more torque (it is longer).

.

That's amazing!!!!

That is "high tech" korreka!
I've sent you a PM.

That should be cool to have an article.

We are already working on that. Will take some weeks though...

Lars

stingray-63 wrote:

That should be cool to have an article.

GENIAL!!!!