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Back from the shed ... mast was finished yesterday, superstructure has had 1st coat of sealer, hull needs a bit of trimming/sanding ...
... done, & more sheet cut out to reinforce the rudder/servo mount, prop tube & motor mount ... Back in the shed - resin on the inside of the hull & on the deck (I think you can just about see the shine), more sealer on the superstructure.... I just had a look for RAF roundels, numbers & a flag ... I can find them all right, but it'll set me back another 20 quid :eek: ... I did read somewhere that when you build a boat, the kit is only 20-25% of the cost, I think I might go back & tot up what I've spent & see. I pooh-poohed that figure - spoilt again by RC cars no doubt - but I'm beggining to think it might be right
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Ha, relative kit cost sounds similar to what you'd expect with aero kits. Should expect it really as wood, glue & paper with ink on is fairly cheap, whereas paint, decals & twiddly bought-in detaily bits aren't. Completely the opposite with steam engine casting kits, it's the drawings/plans that do the money-sucking with those!
Wonder what's in that resin then - 1:1 mix suggests epoxy (Does it smell fishy?) but the "You can sand it" bit in the destructions suggests it's not. Have you thought about doing your own printed roundels? - I've been getting some really good results from the waterslide inkjet printable decal sheets that are more widely available now. If you get the cheapy stuff, it needs a thin coat of laquer to seal the ink in & make it waterproof, but waterslides are really thin anyway & cling to contours far better than any self-adhesive stuff
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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Yeah, you'd _think_ a small box with a few sheets of paper & some wood in it would be cheap, but no - unless you mean cheap in the context of new Tamiya RC kits - it cost about the same as a Sand Rover DT-02 Re the resin - if I hadn't worked in a psychiatric unit & smelt some far more unmentionable things there, including something that smells _exactly _like this resin, then I guess you could say it smells "fishy" The "easily sandable" apsect is not really true, I'm not sure it's any easier than regular resin TBH. Thanks for the suggestion of waterslides - I've been meaning to try that for a while - but I'm not sure here is the right place, they won't be immersed, but they are going to get wet ... |
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Some more pics from yesterday ... this is the deck after the first coat of resin, I popped a lot of bubbles with a pin while the resin was setting - but the camera has picked a lot more ...
... the biggest problem was gaps & inadequate filling between the planks: For the second coat I used a syringe & a blunt, big bore tip to make sure the voids were filled, then brushed on more to get it level. It's not perfect by any means, but it's a way quicker alternative to 15 coats of varnish & lots rubbing down. I need to build some sort of vacuum pump to deal with the bubble though ,,, even a kilner jar & hoover would be better than nothing |
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Just weighed the thing - with two 7.2v stick packs, all the greeblies & running gear (but still sans windows & paint, obviously), it tips the scales at 1.9kg ... which sounded extremely porky to me
I've just given it at test float in the bath & was pleasantly surprised - draft is about 75mm including the keel (though I suspect that'll go up under power/on the plane, and the waterline is much higher than I'd feared - there's plenty of scope for a bit of ballast to get the trim right. I weighed it afterwards & it was still the same - no leaks then Looking at the photos it's a bit nose heavy ... easy enough to fit the batteries futher back though.
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Re waterslides - usually you coat them with laquer once the ink's dried, to seal it in & make it weather resistant. They could also be laquered/varnished over completely to make them totally impervious to moisture. Having said that, once they're stuck & dry, they tend not to come unstuck with the addition of new water (There are actually products out there sold for the removal of waterslides). There is also some "Dishwasher proof" material out there (Haven't found any yet) that some people are using to do pictures on mugs etc (Had a discussion about it with one of the sellers at a vintage fair last year, but can't remember where she said she got the stuff from)
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
...
Grasshopper resto
...
XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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Made my own lifebelts from 3mm styrene (dremelling & sanding to shape took an age) + strands of copper twizzled in a drill for the rope:
Also got some primer on the hull & superstructure: There's a lot of grain showing through despite 2 coats of sealer & sanding (this is the worst bit) ... I'll probably just give this a fairly thorough sanding, prime again, sand lightly & then go for the colour coats ... The hull on the other hand will need more drastic work - it looked ok (really) until I got the primer on it - I'll give this a very careful "knibbing" to get the worst of the peaks off, then try to skim it with car body filler. |
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