TOPIC:

Er, this is what I have so far... As you can see, it's, er, broken! Hoping I'm gonna be able to repair the holes in the chassis (Just waiting for some low temp aluminium brazing rods). Toyed with the idea of taking a mould of the Rx battery tray to copy it, to fit to where the Rx tray used to be, but probably won't bother, same with the missing side nerf bars. Just repairing a wheel rim at the mo, might chrome them later today. Gonna keep the old MSC for entertainment purposes - I seem to remember from celica ownership that this type like to set fire to themselves!

Shiny wheels! Didn't know what to do about the previous owner's glue "incidents" so it'll have to stay. Didn't bother cleaning them up too much first cos the rest of it will never be spectacular

Drawing of planned wheel adaptor (Dunno how the pic is gonna come out on here cos I had to do a screen dump to capture it cos I can't save it in a format that I can post)

WOW Are you a rocket scientist? designing your own stuff . This is going outside of my league. Just make sure you dont ruin the axle. They are harder to find than any other spare part , i had even dreams about sparepart 50009 (or just NO:9 )

Ferazz

Haha, no got bored with space... Sort of assumed you were gonna make an adaptor & just wanted the numbers, but if you're not up for a bit of makeage, the "sleeved diff hex adaptor" idea should work, but put it on the shaft the other way around (Hex-first into the wheel) & use a metal collar around the round bit of the adaptor & tap through it so the grubscrew has something harder to work in, if you get me. If you have any dimensional info for the axle, I can soon make one up - check out the homemade 1/12 car I did (& my TXT) - that had a homemade axle & ball diff (Amongst other stuff)

This is really great stuff. What software did you use to make the drawing?

AutoCAD 2000 at the moment - I usually inherit the older versions of it when work update their software. The newer versions of AutoCAD are a bit of a pig for "change of ownership" & 2000 is good enough for what I need, so I've stuck with it. There are more & more drawing packages available nowadays that are more sensibly priced for the home user eg TurboCAD (Think that's still about?) & some are free to download. Open Office (Free) has a drawing function, but I haven't tried it yet. AutoCAD 2000 is also the most reliable version for creating DXF files to feed directly to CNC machinery (Was thinking about converting my mill to CNC a few years back, but Paypal changed the rules about dealing with China & Germany, which then put the components out of my reach again, so it got shelved). Still got access to work's CNC router, which is handy for plastic bits though

AutoCAD... I should have guessed that. I've worked with that too (long ago) and made some CNC chess pieces.
Great software - having a CNC at home would be awesome.

I used to have a DOS based tablet package called Concerto which was much better, but I had to ditch it because it was getting too confusing trying to use it at home then AutoCAD at work! Yes, CNC at home would definately help with the more complicated machining

Did some more to the car today. Machined up the replacement drive hex & fitted it (Works lovely) but it's raised some more head-scratching - I'm not 100% sure the length is right (Taken from the make-up of parts as per the manual, but I'm wondering if the parts fitted weren't original...) as the rear axle appears to be offset +4mm on the diff side... Not having the diff is proving to be a nuisance & I can't find any info stating the car width over the wheels or how much they're supposed to stick out. Another "funny" is when I checked the manual to see which way up the chassis is supposed to be, it says "Tamiya letters top side", but the motor pod screws don't line up with the holes if you do that... (& the offset increases to +7mm!). On a positive note though, it appears that Rough Rider primary gears are the same pitch as what's required for this - the spares bag has a 65t & a 70t (I want 67t I think) so I've ordered one thinking this might be a better starting point for making a diff (Probably have to slot the motor holes a bit to allow for a bit of adjustment).
I've managed to bung up the excess holes in the chassis, but this appears to be a mute point now as it appears 32mm has been removed from the front of it (Explains why the RX tray's been cut off) - wheelbase has come out at 205mm, which isn't all bad cos it means Kamtec banger bodies will fit it without further modification