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HI!... As many of you know the most popular dye used for dying RC plastic parts is RIT dye. Does anyone know if they have changed the formula of it? I dyed a ton of Bigwig parts last year. Turned yellow and blue parts black. Been trying to do the same thing today and the parts are coming out of the dye totally untouched. They look just like they did before I put them in. Except some of the yellow parts turned army green. I used the same procedure I have always used for over 15 years. Never had this problem before. Same RIT part # ,bought it from the same store as I always do. Doesn't make sense. Some parts are vintage originals and others are re-re. Still the same problem. Possibly a bad mixture from the factory? Anyone else had this problem? Think I just ruined over $100 in vintage parts!
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Last edit: by THE H.P FREAK.
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HI!... Apparently this is the solution. I'm going to try this with some old parts next weekend.
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HI!... O.k, I tried the method used in the vid posted. I did it exactly to the letter of what he did. This set-up DOES NOT work on ABS!!!!! I tried 4 different sets of Tamiya Bigwig parts and none of them took the black RIT dye what so ever. I even left them in the solution for over a hour. And nothing. There's got to be a way of dying these things. What I don't understand is that my aluminum chassis Bigwig project I dyed the same parts with the same dye and they all took it with no problems. Now I can't get them to accept the dye at all. This is really starting to pissssss me off!!!!
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Last edit: by THE H.P FREAK.
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to whitening spares, why you don t use "eau oxygénée" ? Maybe peroxyde in english????
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HI!... HUH? I'm trying to dye light blue parts black....... |
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not sure but the "eau oxygénée" could be ok if your tinting is too dark
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HI!... I don't think you understand what I'm trying to do. I'm trying to dye blue BIGWIG parts BLACK. I've done it before but the dye won't take on the parts this time. |
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sorry hp I really don t understoud
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