TOPIC:

definitely not anodized....they're stamped aluminum

One doesn't really exclude the other but if I'm not mistaken the Black Porsche is the only model with an anodized chassis.

The tgx is blue anodized and sometimes alu is transparent anodized or has just some treatement on surface to avoid oxydation.

Didn't know about the TGX but I was aiming more at the electrically powered vintage cars...
Normally there would be no reason to keep the aluminium from oxidizing, it's a good protection in itself.
Non-destructive, like iron (rust) is for example...
One would anodise for esthetic purposes (colour) or better scratch resistence.
Or just the fun of the experiment!

very good your anodization system. You want to remetalise your damper support?
Be carefull because this system put alu on all the piece same on the screw holes
what liquid are you using and under wich dc curant? I am very interested

I still have to tweak the process because up to this point I cannot get it working with every kind of aluminium.
Most likely because I'm not yet able to push enough energy into it with the power supply I've been using.
It is a 15V lightweight - next will be one for a laptop at about 19V but with more "juice" potential.
These damper stays went alright though with some high quality dyes :



The liquid is sulfuric (battery) acid...
But I'll write a piece for the blog when I think I can control the anodising with enough predictability.

it is a very nice work. Respect
the most important is not the voltage but it.is the current capacity. The ampers and the concentration of sulfuric acid. And it is easier with finer alu anode.
I love your blacked dampers stay

Edou,
Can you say me what type of dc you are using, the type of container and what is the metal plate you used for anodization on the pict please?
I would like to anodize or restore some alu pieces. Not only for rc but so for real cars or weapons or other things...

Probably the most home anodising is done on paintball guns and motorcycles... but be careful, it's hazardous stuff.
The container is a normal storage unit but it's made of polypropylene. Which is inert to acid.
I don't keep the liquid in this but put it in (closed) bottles afterwards.

The aluminium cathode is from a generic plate I folded.
I got it at a specialist hardware store. Purer alloy works better though.
Connection wires are aluminium as well. They're from a craft materials shop...

The DC I'm putting in has been the biggest issue so far. I've been using a Graupner power supply.
This doesn't have enough "bite" to it so next will be one that's for a laptop.
If that doesn't work well, (in the future) I'll look around for something that could power a slot race or scale train.
Other than that I got some high quality dye at this store.
They even have complete kits but I'd rather use an aluminium cathode than lead myself...

It is very cool thanks a lot for infos.
For the dc, you can use a car battery charger in 12V wich can make relatively fast charge.
It is cheaper than a high perf dc power.