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Used photobucket for the images enjoy!

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Took receiver off so more of car was visible, used it a couple of times but it went faster in reverse. I guess thats a motor fail but unsure. Nothing is analogue as im guessing it would have been, all electrics are futaba. the carbon fibre is pretty good condition i did spot a crack in my plastic bulkhead looks like a screw may have been overtightened at some point. Oh and i think i might be missing one of the aluminium risers from front right of car.

That looks like an aftermarket carbon Top Force Evo chassis set. Not by Tamiya though...
Don't know who else made them (besides Fibre-lyte now).
Bit of a mix and match but a brilliant car to run, I think.



Edit - I think I see a set of universals (one-piece axles, so to say) in front, which is a big plus.

Its good to know i can get parts for this, my carbon fibre parts look identical to the one's you linked. Im loving the tbg top force body also, undercowel looks expensive for what it is and i cant seem to buy together with the body, but overall will look sick in dayglow orange or green
or matt black ofc

I think the Top Force shell is great too. Really need to find another one.
Undercowl is affordable at TBG btw. Shipping's alright too 'cause it fits through the mailbox.

It'll be most interesting to have a look if/when you take the car apart.
See if there's ball diffs in it and possibly other goodies...

Im more looking to put this together for now than to strip down, im thinking about buying new motor see if that fixes my electrical problem, im guessing brushes have gone in forwards direction but tbh am more familiar with nitro cars so speed controllers are a mystery to me.
What happend to your top force shell btw?

The motor mounts are vulnerable - best to get a (GPM or Yeah Racing) aluminium one.
Sold the bathtub chassis Top Force...
Can't keep 'em all with the way I tend to hop up to the max.

I printed out the manual and worked out what i need to make this car complete enough to mount a body, managed to find the J parts 9115041 on ebay so that covers rear body mount and wing mount plasics plus i can swap that front bulkhead that is little cracked (J10) all the screws and washers i can get from my local hardware store. Sooo i still have these parts to find-

J12 - Aluminium post (i saw in earlier post u can sub from avante but still cant find)
SD2 - Hexagonal mount (im guessing this is gonna be like the holy grail)
SD3 - Wing mount
BP2 - Wire wing stay (i have seen these on ebay but comes as a press parts set)

Im gutted i have no access to a lathe atm, i could deffinately make the J12 and SD2 myself easy enough. And im tempted to make my own wire wing stay out of a coat hanger
If anyone has any idea how to source these bits i would be elated maybe i should start a new thread and beg until someone cracks teehee

Big thank you to Edou for getting me this far

No worries, love a good DF-01 parts hunt.



SD2 is only needed if you want to fit a Top Force shell...
And not even that much if you use a bit of velcro.

I'd say go for the press parts bag - you'll have some original battery plates too.

And possibly resell the damper stays...

Looking at the motor, I'm not sure what it is but it does seem to have a bent over tab holding the endbell on - which means it's fixed timing ...

I would guess it has some advance on it, but because of the side of the car it's fitted on & the number of gears, it's spinning backwards when the car is going forwards ... edou has far more knowledge of this platform than I do...

If is going "backwards", then you need a motor with completely neutral timing (only basic 27T silvercan motors come to mind - meh ), or fully variable timing ... I can only think of the Technigold motor in the brushed department ATM, but any brushless setup will have timing and rotation settings (make sure you get a programming card).

If you're used to nitro speed then TBH only a fast brushless setup is going to cut the mustard anyway My experience is with the cheap EZRUN setups - the 13T "equivalent" is pretty fast by electric standards, the 9T a bit more so, the 5.5T is completely batshit

Another possibility is that the radio & ESC are incorrectly set up. Or the brushes are clapped, as you say