TOPIC:

Haha....  Did a double-take on the Pork Tuned.

Redraw of the stripes (bonnet took 2 attempts to look ok) & test cut in satin black. I probably will do a test fit before cutting these in white (lettering) , and silver/dark blue/some other blue-ish tone

 

Did a test fit, there are a few things to tweak & i need to put the final ones on better but overall I think this is working quite well

 

It's very nice Jonny.

Really nice sheme and job. This reminds me that i always wanted to paint a Bruiser or Mountaineer like this Baja Sheme but never came to it...yet 

 

I love the stripes JR 

ORV diff gears arrived, it was close thing deciding which one to use, but in the end it looked like one might be easier to make fit than the other.

I took metal off the outside diameter, off the end of the cup, and a bit off the face too - and then ground 3 notches. A "properly" locked rear diff would depend on the strength of the cross drilled driveshaft & the splines in the steel gear on the other. I think the splines in the pot metal gear are going to be the weak point here, rather than the remains of the gear itself as there's no end float or backlash. 

Before:






And after:






Took a skim off the diff cover too, just to take the worst off

CChand Metal logos for the RC4WD TF2 & Bruiser, so hope they'll fit ... could find no instructions or even hints on what to do with them, so slapped on NATO Black & rubbed the excess off on plain paper before it had fully cured.



 

Have I mentioned how much the inside of the P407 box reeks of compost? It really does. And when I say compost, I really mean fertiliser. Like the sort that's shat by a chicken. 

I wonder if it's the suspect oil that's not longer in the shocks, if it's decomposed in the years since the kit was assembled & seeped into everything.


I had a look at the ladder frame again & noticed the moveable spring shackles didn't really move. They'd been torqued up so they wouldn't fall apart, which wouldn't have happened if the screws were long enough to reach the plastic insert part of the locknuts. Although when I used longer screws, the inserts got chewed up & ejected   









I'm not going to be using the big white bumpers, on the front there's not much I can do to hide the end of the chassis, but on the rear I could shorten the (removeable/replaceable) stays a bit .





Decided I couldn't live with the 3D printed servo mount, so refitted the original steel pressing & fitted an aluminium servo bracket.

Your build shows that it's really a pale copy of the Tamiya. 
I already had smelly grease. Be carefull with it some are toxic. On my midnight, the first owner used a molycote style brown blond grease wich is smelly and gone out gearbox since some years..  the worst grease I had was so smelly than It ended in the trashcan. It was a old esso cartridge 😂