TOPIC:

Hi pro of bodies restoring,
Only a monkey question:
Wich product are you using to block holes????
personnaly I use 1/1 body repair resin as syntofer. I think that's a low cost restoring, but it is some hard work. I am restoring a lunch box body but it is not on jonny retro level. far far away.
here some pics after block holes and first primer. final paint is comming. when the weather will want it.

Have you got any pictures from before you did the filling ?

Sorry I forget to pict before blocking. but when I run the first restoration, I used a dremel to remove the paint... I was young ang not expert. There are some holes everywhere on the body
Now I restore it with a cameleon paint to makea body runner for my rm01.
It was in poor condition due to hard running

Jonny you are a reference for me because your work is so good!!!
and when I test to restore, I CRY

For me, it depends what sort of body (Hard ABS or floppy lexan), how big & what shape the holes are, & whether or not I'm trying to preserve the existing paint finish. With ABS bodies, I find the easiest thing to use is Plasticard (Or any other styrene sheet I can find) - it's easy to cut/sand to shape & makes a strong bond to the body plastic with normal model glue (Styrene cement). Car body filler etc is ok for small holes, but it doesn't bond to the plastic, & will fall out unless you "key" the hole well (Key = rough-up or score). I haven't found a good way to repair lexan yet, I mostly ignore extra holes in it, or cover with decals/tape, or if it's just a "Show" model, I sometimes tape over the hole outside, then fill the hole with clear acrylic resin from the inside, removing the tape once it's set. It's not perfect, & the resin doesn't bond with the lexan so it's likely to fall out with rough handling. Some people say CA glue works on lexan, but I've never had success with that

Anybody familiar with RC Tech FlexaFix, apparently that works on polycarbonat.

Other thing I was thinking of trying on lexan, is using a soldering iron to heat and melt it, and try close or fix holes and rents with some leftovers from lexan bodies

For lexan, when it is cuted,I use transparent tape and ca glue when it is needed. But for abs I use sintofer.

Nope, soldering iron method doesn't work with lexan, it doesn't like direct heat & will shrink bubble & burn. An indirect heating method might work as it is a thermoplastic (So should weld). An adapted hot air welder? (Got one, but all my nozzles are too big to try)

Sorry with soldering iron I ment one that is not to hot (30W? with big tip), just to get the lexan to meld.

stingray-63 wrote:

...I used a dremel to remove the paint...

waterbok wrote:

...Other thing I was thinking of trying on lexan, is using a soldering iron to heat and melt it...

eddrick wrote:

... An indirect heating method might work as it is a thermoplastic (So should weld). An adapted hot air welder? ...

waterbok wrote:

...with soldering iron I ment one that is not to hot (30W? with big tip)...

/Checks date ... nope ...