Aha, & now it becomes clear! - so I take it long screws are passed through the gearbox & screw into the tic-tacs, then the motor fits on the finned side of the plate by way of 1x pair of the 12x CSK holes?
Still a bit bemused about the idea of mounting a heatsink the wrong way around though, there would be more heat-transfer area if the motor was mounted on a flat surface, unless the intention is to stop the gearbox heating the motor up.... On a completely unrelated note, Waterbok, seeing as you've got the calipers out, could you have an accurate measure of those mounts etc for me please? Ta ta ta
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Gotta get used to the forum not going to the latest post anymore but to the latest unread post...
Indeed, just in reverse order if you fit it. Edit - and if you don't threadlock the pins, there's a chance they get loose when you take the motor off... If Murphy's law is in effect and the outer screw is assasinated at the same time, there's some annoying fiddling to be done. Like on the pictures above... |
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Last edit: by Edou.
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Made the threaded spacer doodads, that was relatively easy (if a bit slow), but getting the thing to fit was another matter
It didn't get better even after I realised that I needed a 0.6mod pinion (instead of 0.8mod to fit throught the aperture in the gearbox - I just couldn't make any permutation of the mount holes in the Orion motor to work, so it's going to get a Sport Tuned motor instead. Screws have been threadlocked & torqued down within an inch of their lives |
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Looking at that setup I foresee it being a nuisance if the tic-tac screws come loose & there's any threadlock/stiffness in there - if you then try to unscrew the gearbox screws & the whole lot spins (cos the tic tac & screws aint tight) you'll never (easily) get it apart again. I wonder why they didn't tap the plate for the gearbox screws & use plain spacers?
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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Eddrick, have a look a few posts back for a worst case tic tac scenario (if you missed it)...
Spent a couple of hours getting it loose. Decided to let the thread lock settle for a day on any of these mounts I assemble. Really, I was a donkey because it wasn't the first time something similar happened. |
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Last edit: by Edou.
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Yes I did see, it reminded me of when I learned that trying to get stuff like that apart is a waste of time & you should just save time by just shaking your head & reaching for the grinder.
Nice bit of kit, but a bit of a poor design regarding foresight into how it might behave when it's not brand new any more. That & the whole back-to-front heatsink thing. Are they expensive? - I've got a pile of Pentium 1 heatsinks here I could be hacking up for some extra dough
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
...
Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
...
Mardave Cobra resto
...
Thunder Dragon resto
...
Grasshopper resto
...
XR311 resto
...
Modded XR311
...
Carbon 25th scratch build
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Managed to save the gearbox at least so I didn't have to buy another gearbox sprue tree.
Those titanium hex heads are soft as butter, just not when you want them to... Motor mounts are only about $6 at Asiatees so they wouldn't be worth much trouble... The design is a bit weird indeed. Wonder which one's most effective. The Tamiya version and also the Yeah Racing one are solid at least. Reckon all are better than the plastic bit that always breaks. If you put the GPM together correctly (and received all the pieces), that is. |
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Sounds like the perfect replacement for the original Tamiya part then |
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