TOPIC:

Hello All.

I have been out of the RC game for more than 15 years but after stumbling upon a box in which lied my old Toyota Mountaineer I decided to get back in the game and restore the beauty.
So after doing a little research I found this website and already got plenty of good advice from a few members. But I have a few questions that I would like to ask and that is why I started this new topic:

- I was told I could replace my current 3 speed transmission with the new one currently in the Bruiser re-edition. If so where can I get one? Tamiya website does not list it, and eBay only shows vintage transmissions.

- isn't the new transmission in the new Bruiser designed to operate a diff lock? So if I do put my hands on the new transmission what else do I need to do as far as the diff lock?

- If I can't get a new one, I will fix the one I have. do you recommend installing gaskets to avoid the "ugly looking / not so efficient silicon"? Here are the gaskets I found on eBay:


- Can my old mountaineer handle an electronic speed control? Which one would you recommend?

- I know the mountaineer requires a 4ch radio control, but my understanding is that the more channels the more servos you can control so if I wanted to add a few features like LED lights that needed to be operated by a servo to turn on or Off remotly, then I suppose I should take a 6 or 8 channel radio right? But while looking at such radios, they seem to be all designed for helicopters or planes! Is there a radio control with more than 4ch that you recommend for my Mountaineer?

- Talking about servos, I remember thinking the wheels were a bit heavy for the servos I used back then, is there a specific strong servo you recommend?

- I want the whole car to be water resistant, are all the servos, transmitters, speed controllers water resistant now days?

- I am thinking about rebuilding pretty much everything except the chassi. What kind of oil should I use in the front and rear axel? And which oil should I use in the damper spring shocks? What oil do I spay in the transmission?

- How do I clean the chassi and metal parts, should I polish everything or is that going to be too much of a nightmare? If I do polish everything do you think I should take the hole chassi apart? Or can I just polish it as is?

- How do you polish? Is there a specific electric polisher to use? What kind of paste to use for polishing?

- do you recommend using new bearings? Can you buy any specifically for the Mountaineer?

Ok I think I covered all the questions I currently have. I would be amazed if anyone even takes the time to read them so thank you in advance if you are reading this and sorry for all the naive questions, but like I said it's been at least 15 years since I left the RC community, but I AM BACK! And I really want to give this Mountaineer a new life, here are a few pictures:








Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

With modern electronics the car is mas surely, Not you give a displeasure if the recipient remains without batteries. I recommend you an issuer of trigger and Of 2.4GHz, 4 channel.
An example:

www.ebay.es/itm...5afa0fc348

Search for more economic equivalence....



bearings always!
Speed control waterproof, or balloon of Birthdays.. Polishing chassis.... dremel with disc of hair of steel. Cleanliness of metallic pieces with nitro solvent .

I'm not going to cover all your questions, but a few

Pichpich wrote:

- I was told I could replace my current 3 speed transmission with the new one currently in the Bruiser re-edition. If so where can I get one? Tamiya website does not list it, and eBay only shows vintage transmissions.

Tamiyausa.com does not have the complete transmission for the new 58519 Bruiser listed. You might be able to source all the parts for the transmission if you study the 58519 manual ant the parts listing on Tamiya USA.

Pichpich wrote:

- If I can't get a new one, I will fix the one I have. do you recommend installing gaskets to avoid the "ugly looking / not so efficient silicon"? Here are the gaskets I found on eBay

From what I remember the castings of the trans cases are quite rough, making the potential gaps between the halves possibly larger than what a gasket can handle.Study your trans and if the gaps look eve/small thenmaybe gaskets would be enough.

Pichpich wrote:

- Can my old mountaineer handle an electronic speed control? Which one would you recommend?

Yes, it can handle one, and I would also recommend using one if you plan on running it. I am not into which one to use though...

Pichpich wrote:

- I know the mountaineer requires a 4ch radio control, but my understanding is that the more channels the more servos you can control so if I wanted to add a few features like LED lights that needed to be operated by a servo to turn on or Off remotly, then I suppose I should take a 6 or 8 channel radio right? But while looking at such radios, they seem to be all designed for helicopters or planes! Is there a radio control with more than 4ch that you recommend for my Mountaineer?

Tamiya currently make Light kits and Multi Function units that operate based on steering and throtle signals. Search for TLU-01 and TLU-02 units. (and read HERE )

Pichpich wrote:

- How do I clean the chassi and metal parts, should I polish everything or is that going to be too much of a nightmare? If I do polish everything do you think I should take the hole chassi apart? Or can I just polish it as is?

If you polish, you should take the chassis apart. It would be close to impossible to polish the assemebeled chassis.

-Lars

Hobbyking have good servos, transmitters and speed controls
They have a 45a esc
I have an orangerx t6 transmitter it has all the features of radios 4x the price
Youtube djmedic2007 has tutorials on how to waterproof electronics
On my hsp warhead/breaker db thread i have how to drive leds on an old servo board

Sent from my GT-S6500D using Tapatalk 2

Hi Pichpich,

Welcome on TB !

That's a nice truck you have there, and i'm glad you willing to "revive" it !

I will try answer a few of your questions (not all of them ) as i have already restored a few Bruisers/Mountaineers.

Pichpich wrote:

- I was told I could replace my current 3 speed transmission with the new one currently in the Bruiser re-edition. If so where can I get one? Tamiya website does not list it, and eBay only shows vintage transmissions.

Everything depends what you want to do with your Mountaineer. As far as i understood you plan to drive it and it's not supposed to be a shelfer or 100% vintage. But honestly i have never tried to replace the original transmission with a re-re one.

Pichpich wrote:

- If I can't get a new one, I will fix the one I have. do you recommend installing gaskets to avoid the "ugly looking / not so efficient silicon"?

I would suggest you to keep the original transmission ! Depending on how it has been droven the original bushings may need a replacement. There are two options :
You can keep the original layout by replacing the bronze bushings or
Replace the bronze bushings with ball bearings. The ballbearings can be ordered as a set here

On the other hand if you intend to install the gaskets, be aware the keep the right clearance between the shifts forks otherwise the gearbox wont shift properly.
If you want to have a look for dismanteling and reassembling the gearbox, you can check my resto post here

To avoid the "ugly looking" of silicon, i use Teflon based grease. That grease wont corrode or attack the different materials used in the gearbox. Unfortunately i don't know if it's available outside Switzerland. If you're intrested just drop me a PM and we'll see if i can send you the specs or a tube of it.

Pichpich wrote:

- I am thinking about rebuilding pretty much everything except the chassi. What kind of oil should I use in the front and rear axel? And which oil should I use in the damper spring shocks? What oil do I spay in the transmission?

See previous answer...

Pichpich wrote:

- do you recommend using new bearings? Can you buy any specifically for the Mountaineer?

If you intend to play with it, i'd say yes even if the original bushings are ok. See previous post for bearings ordering


I hope this helps ! Don't forget to post pictures of your thread !
Manotas

A BIG THANK YOU to everyone for all the answers, I really really appreciate it. Now I need to get to work! I will keep you informed and will most likely come back with a few more questions. Thank you so much!



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

A bit late to the party here ...

Anyway - I don't know how similar the re-re Bruiser is to the original - I mean it was close enough for me, but I'm not aware of anyone doing a side by side comparison. I know that the gearbox on the re-re is build it yourself & has a 540 motor (and having done a full speed flypast in 4WD and heard the little motor spinning at full revs like NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! makes me wonder if they should have stuck with a bigger one ) and plastic gears ... fasteners are also brown passivated rather than yellow and come in bags that each do about a 1/4 of the build in order rather than the sort of random selection they used to be...

My re-re Bruiser build


I'd try rebuilding the original transmission - there's a PDF rebuild "manual" at www.kope.com/bruiser/ & an article using that as a basis at tamiya101.com/a...ission.asp .


ESCs, IIRC I used a 20T rated unit, but with the 750 motor I'd be thinking at least a 15T limit ESC, maybe even a 12T?



Radio gear, I can't get on with steerwheel units at all, and there can be an issue with how the 3rd channel is implemented ...

I used a Planet T5 setup, which at the time I bought it was pretty much the cheapest way into 2.4ghz. It's a flight set, and out of the box the left stick is ratcheted/unsprung up/down, sprung left right; the right stick is sprung both ways, and the 5th channel is a 2-position switch.

Turning the left stick gimbal 90 degrees & fitting a shift gate gave me ratcheted/unsprung left/right for the gearshift, sprung up down for speed/forward/reverse. right stick just does the steering on left/right, but on another car/TX I have the up down controlling a winch. The 5th channel is paired with a Turnigy RX switch on the truck for simple on/off control of headlights, sidelights, tail lights & direction repeaters (as "cruise" lights) all together.


Tamiya MFUs are nice, but stupidly expensive IMO. A £20 unit will give you all the same light effects ... neither work with 2.4ghz radio as far as I can see.

Thank you Jonny!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk