TOPIC:

For the wheel axis, using the proposed method on rc10talk and flanged bearings in 6x10x2.5,





That will do it, and i'm likely to have just the bearing needed for this in one of my boxes

Need to check if I need to adapt something for the shaft  4x13x5 bearings or not...

They are strange size bearings. 

The Zerda was the first car delivered ball raced... and the design cues are the same as the 44B chassis or the Bearcat chassis. At that time, I guess the approach was a bit empiric and relied on availability and costs (same as Akira Kogawa for the Optima chassis who indicated that ladder chain versus timing belt choice was made based on those criterias)...

Within the last straight line for the Hirobo Bearcat SS push to Thingiverse...

It's currently about finetuning and test print...

I started by trying printing a topdeck section to check my chassis measurements. The print failed multiple times, and therefore I stopped trying and just checked the dimension from the elements which were on the bed at the last fail.

Good news is that it is corresponding... I worked then on the printer to get the bed cleaned and to level it again to get prints working again. I still have an issue in a specific area of the bed that I can't explain, and it doesn't allow me to print the top deck as it hits that area...

I then printed the left part of the gearbox (not the modified one but the original one)

The target here was to check the correspondance with the original  right side of the gearbox : it matches and the inside dims are right as well. With the left side, I was also able to check the fitting of the motor plate (perfect), and the fitting on the chassis (perfect again).

I launched a print of the bonnet as I do want to see how it looks in real and how far it is from the original one...

During the prints I did work a bit on the differential : I wanted to check it is right, and rechecked dimensions. I won't print it now, but the diff should work. I'm planning to do a full Powergrip GT2 version of the gearset as well (should be printable even for the small pulleys in MJF PA12 glass filled).

Then I decided to focus on the front knuckles. The axle is inserted while hot with pressure. It works ok, but once you get a nut locked on it or too tightly torqued, it goes with the wheel once you are trying to unscrew it. I have a brand new set of knuckles but I want to provide  a solution for those who are not able to find new knuckles...

Basically, using a M4 bolt, we should be able to replace the axle easily. I reviewed the plastic part of the knucle to work with a bolt inserted in it...


Once this was done, I just reinforced by extending the diameter around the axle.


I may still do additionnal mods to include M3 holes instead of M2 for the pivot balls... But at least I made some progress today...

The bonnet is printed, and while it is not perfectly exact reproduction, it would do it for any Bearcat SS, Bearcat or Tomcat owner without bodyshell (I did not saw any reproduction for those anywhere).




it would require a bit of finish and probably a print with a finer thickness, but it's definitely better than nothing. 

And would you consider this good enough?

The thickness is good for me. And it does the work.  Filling and sanding and it should be nice . Like the barbapapa bearcat body.

Files are now on Thingiverse : www.thingiverse...ng:5567895

I plan to update with PowergipGT2  gearset at some point, in addition to the files I put on Thingiverse today... Happy Hirobo Bearcat/Tomcat repairs !

The weather was nice this afternoon, with a warm and sunny Sunday. I was outside, and I decided to start the clean up of the Bearcat SS...

First action was to put the bonnet, roll cage and rims in glanzer. I removed the stickers later on as I forgot that...


Then I focused on the rest... Plastic chassis parts, transmission and metal parts...

I have one suspension axle requiring a bit of massaging...


And I will have to find a solution to replace the suspension axle fixations... Some were missing. That said, I may have a solution for this


And the glanzer bath is working. I can tell as it becomes darker after one hour bath . This is there for at least 24 hours, perhaps more. I'll have a look tomorrow when back from the office.


At the end, the parts are definitely cleaner


Some good progress today...

The Glanzer is miraculous. It made the job. The bonnet, rollcage and rims are back to their original color.



There si still a bit of work on the rims, and I need to check what I have to put on the rims in the tire department, but that should not be too much issues...
I guess I'm getting closer to rebuild this car

Interesting - but Glanzer what? I thought it was a French domestic chemical brand, rather than a specific product? 

What's the active ingredient? Sodium Hydroxide?