TOPIC:

After a bit of research I gonna change the trailer spec to CX-5308LT.
The sidepanels makes it a bit easier to make and it gets sturdier. Also it will fit 8 cars instead of 7.

Found a selling site with really good detail pics, not that I'm be able to do so in such small scale.
But I have an idea of how I'm going to make the ramps adjustable. And easy to take apart before paint.

Here are the site with details: www.purplewave....ier-Kansas


And how CX-5308LT looks like.
The front "tower" makes it easy to fit the ramps and it has pivot at the front rams in the rear. The rear most ramps holds the rear upper deck.

Can't wait to see this monster trailer.

Had a hard time to make the driving ramps.
First I tested with soda can which has the perfect thickness. But as I want the driving ramps to have the U profile, when I tired to cut down the sides it never got a good enough results in my eyes. Wanted to have about 1mm bent upwards on the sides.
Next I tried the KS aluminium sheet I have here (0.4mm), that was too hard to bend and got worse results than the soda can method.


Then in the middle of the night when I tried to get some sleep, a ligth bulb came on in my head.

Solution is to use 6.3mm styrene square tube and making my own tool.

And here is the tool.
Two pieces of 1.5 styrene sheets with a 1mm strip glued together.


How this is gonna help me you ask??
Well I need a knife held steady at 1.5mm hight (the styrene tube is approx 0.5mm wall thick and I need 1mm on each side on top of that, hence 1.5mm styrene sheet in the tool).
Insert a stanley blade in the tool and I' ready 


I do know there is such tool out there, but I need it now and I as you see I made the tool with with what I had in stock 

And here is the result. One 6.3mm square styrene tube cut down to 1.5mm hight.


And looks like this with vehicles on


I decided that 12mm between the driving ramps was ok.
This was how I designed the lower ramps to be


Problem with this is the vehicle over the tandem axle has the front end in the air due the steep angle of the ramp..


By swapping the front and secend most ramps around, the problem was solved..


A closer look..


You may ask "how do you hinder the rear most car to roll off the ramps?"
Well if you look closer to the ramp you will see I have made a stopper of some sort.
In real life this bare would be just above the ramp and would secure the tire strap.


With the car removed..



Not taken pics of this but the wheel cover is removeable.
Fitted some small magnets in front and rear.
This is because I plan to fit a very small battery (hearing aid battery) if I go and make some sort of lights.

Now the lower ramps are made I can move to the side plates and then the upper ramps.

That's crazy  Richard. 

Very nice job Richard!! 

Reminds me of a plastic 1/24 model kit I had by Revell as a kid called "Prestige" auto movers. #7434.

I still kept this trailer . 

Yep I still want that Revell trailer and the truck.
I have a few 1:24 builds in my collection as well. Some is still unbuilt (3x Tamiya Zakspeed Capri, Monogram Imsa Mustang (Capri with Mustang body), VW T3 Camper, T1 Panel van, Duesenberg, Scania 143 Top Line)

The trailer kit above was from 83'.
Revell still makes the trailer as kit #85-1509

Thanks lads!


First thing I did today was making a new section (under the rear wheels of the VW camper) as the previous was too tall due the superglue on the underside.
Also made the front most section.


Then I started on the upper middle section.
Used a 6.3x1mm as a beam. Too thick really so the thickness will be sanded down to 4.5mm approx to look more scale.




This how low the upper deck can go with the VW camper on the lower deck.
I plan to make the upper deck adjustable like the real deal.
Those 1mm rods will fit several holes in the front post when done. The rear one will be fitted by longer one, bent to U shape and fit into 2mm tube that will look like the hydraulic sylinders.


As seen here top beam has about 2mm higher wall than the ramps itself, so with that sanded it will look slimmer and would be like 39cm in real life and that is what I suspect the real trailer beam is approxly. Now at 6.3mm it would be 55cm and that seems too much to me.



I think I have figured out how I will make the rest of the trailer, like pivot points, front upper section etc.
A few weeks and this should be done.



And I forgot to tell you I've ordered another 1:87 car. This time the same car as my best friend had in the 90s when we took our license.
The place that sold the HO car is the only one as I could find in Norway selling that exact model, so I jumped straight on the buy button.
I missed another one this spring as I was on the fence if I would buy or not. Now there is no one to find and it seems it is a bit rare.

So far the only bits on this build I've bought for this is the truck itself and 2mm tube and 1mm piano wire. Oh and the two Scania trucks (robbed rear axles) at 5.50 quid each.
That makes it about 40 quid total, not bad. All the other stuff I had in my stash.

I bought a long time ago a combo of corvettes. A stingray split and a c4 in 1/87. They were revell branded. I stil have them but where.......
on the trailer , I take the t1, the mexico and a capri. ;p
I crossed today a t3 westfalia with fuchs rims. It was too nice.

Sure it is not Monogram Expert 1:87 HO series?? The came in little black hanging box with a chrome "showroom"
They have both the split window Corvette and the C4.
It is the same series my Countach comes from.