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Servo's and receivers 11 years 5 months ago #15393

Can anyone recommend a supplier for servo's and receiver's?

There's loads on the bay, but if you can recommend a reliable source... that would be great! :)
<p>Current projects:</p>

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Servo's and receivers 11 years 5 months ago #15394

I get a lot of my servos from Hobbypartz.com or hobbyking.com. Out of about 150 servos I've only had 1 DOA and no failures. What brand of Rx are you looking for? I get my Spektrum ones from hobbyking and flysky from Hobbypartz, hobbyking, eBay, overkillrc.com or nitrorcx.com.

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Re: Servo's and receivers 11 years 5 months ago #15396

Well it just so happens that I've got a pile of them listed on Ebay at the mo, & that little lot is probably only a third of what I've actually got at the mo! - Bought a few job lots of "broken" ones & have been repairing them (Hence why I've been quiet).
None had anything major wrong with them, just dodgy wiring mostly.
Do you have anything in particular in mind?

If you're planning to buy new though, a few tips -
Spend the little extra & get well known brands, ie Acoms, Futaba, Sanwa, as these are reliable & compatible with most other electronic stuff (Particularly Futaba). Spares are also easily sourced for them, eg horns, gears, wiring, plugs etc.

Stay away from the cheapy ones (eg Hitec, Annsmann, Ace RC, generic Futaba S148 copies etc) - the PCBs are built with cheap components & are poorly assembled. Gears are weak, splines often incompatible with other brands & spares often impossible to source. The Futaba copies can have their bits swapped with the genuine article though, but if you're gonna do that, why not just buy the proper thing....

Stay away from "High torque" &/or metal geared cheapy servos - they're anything but "high torque" (eg an Acoms AS12 has far more torque than a cheapy high torque one) & draw an awful lot of current (Usually around 500mA vs 150-200 for the Acoms) which can cause problems for the BEC in an Rx or ESC (Most are rated at 1A max, micro versions rated 500mA or less, ie your Rx or ESC will fry...).
Although I've never seen it, I would also suspect metal gears will cause interference issues for 27MHz AM radio.
In summary, only use High Torque/metal geared servos if you absolutely HAVE to, & best sort out an alternative power source for them, rather than routing it through the Rx/ESC (Easily done - remove the red wire from the servo plug & feed it from a separate 5/6V battery, all -ve joined together & connected to Rx so it's a common 0v).

The other side of the coin is that the cheapy stuff is cheaper, so when the gears break, PCB melts etc just buy a new servo, & another, & another & soon you will have learned how to fit them in your car with your eyes shut...

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Re: Servo's and receivers 11 years 5 months ago #15402

I would second flysky from Hobbyking. Plus I get Eurgle receivers (I think one is a rebadge of the other), and they all work well together. I don't race though, but the Fly Sky FS-GT3B, has been great to run multiple cars from easily. I was keen on staying with crystals, but having a 2.4Ghz receiver that can support 10 cars (or more with hack) and no interference, cheaply, was too hard too resist.

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Re: Servo's and receivers 11 years 5 months ago #15411

I had a HobbyKing 2.4GHz set (HKGT2?), couldn't fault it in terms of functionality & cost, even had a "nice" feel to it. BUT once I was inside the thing (Doing a pistol-to-stick conversion) it quickly became apparent WHY it was so cheap. Cheap components & poor PCB build quality mainly. I also had severe difficulties trying to convince the electronics to "talk" properly to the servos I was using, having trouble with amount of "throw", over/under travel & general servo confusion as a result.

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for cheap stuff that works, but the thing is, at some point it WILL go wrong & need fixing, which is a pain to do with poor quality equipment.
Most people won't ever see this side of it, the equipment will fail & they'll just lash out for a replacement. I personally can't afford to do that, so I tend to buy stuff I know is fixable in the event it gives up. The longer the time span between repairs, the better, hence why I normally go for the better quality gear. An extra 5 quid now can save days of labour later.

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