TOPIC:

Ranger chassis is looking good

... but using a Buggy Champ body on the Super Champ? There are already enough Super Champs out there with that "mod" of expediency, you don't want to wait a couple of months & put a Fighting Buggy shell on it? Or do something else? You don't see many Subaru Brat bodies on SRB chassis, despite the shell having the cut line already in the moulding ...

Jonny wrote:

using a Buggy Champ body on the Super Champ? There are already enough Super Champs out there with that "mod" of expediency, you don't want to wait a couple of months & put a Fighting Buggy shell on it? Or do something else? You don't see many Subaru Brat bodies on SRB chassis, despite the shell having the cut line already in the moulding ...

I had thought about a Brat body but I have a re-re brat to build it's more that I don't actually like the Champ body and this came with the RR shell which I do

TommieG wrote:

What are those red rear shocks? Kyosho?

They could be, I'm not entirely sure but they wont be going back on.

I was pleasantly surprised when I opened up the Gearbox to find everything in good order and with a ball diff Cleaned all the bits and put them through the 2 stages of blasting, upgraded to bearings and bolted back together with the new stainless bolts

Mmmmm, stainless.
I hope theyre allen key...and polished.
I read an article once were they tested 2 r/c cars, one with normal screws and the other had polished stainless ones. The latter one out accelerated, out top speed'd and handled better.
I love reading these rebuilds, the lengths you go to get great results. The older Tamiya stuff is really built, not all plastic and poly what's it.

BTW. is that a scale workshop you photo them in?

nodtec wrote:

Mmmmm, stainless.
I hope theyre allen key...and polished.
I read an article once were they tested 2 r/c cars, one with normal screws and the other had polished stainless ones. The latter one out accelerated, out top speed'd and handled better.
...

I can believe that, not because of the screws, but because taking something apart & putting it back together really, really carefully (or "blueprinting" as it became known later ) gains a few BHP, improves MPG and reduces noise on car and bike engines, no reason why it wouldn't be the same on RC cars.

Of course, it could just be random luck, my Lunchbox & Pumpkin had the same motor, bearings, mods, ESC & pretty much everything else identical, on the same spec battery the Pumpkin is no faster but the run time is 40% longer

nodtec wrote:

I hope theyre allen key...and polished.
I read an article once were they tested 2 r/c cars, one with normal screws and the other had polished stainless ones. The latter one out accelerated, out top speed'd and handled better.

nodtec wrote:

BTW. is that a scale workshop you photo them in?

It's more of a scaled photo set (although the floor isn't, but was good for colour contrast)on wheels, so it's always clear for photos and I can wheel around to get out of the way or adjust for lighting

Made some really great progress with this today, it should be a roller in no time

Looking good Andy!

Even though I had only just returned home after days away, I managed to sneak an hour in the shop before dinner and wifey time