TOPIC:

They certainly caught the imagination of the driving public over here.

Essex had an issue with illegal cruises back in the 80's where loads of lads would use the roads as drag strips! the Capri (of course) was one of the main protagonists!

I had a very early (1st year of production) 1300 GT in aubergine! such a 60's colour!

SEAN

My maternal grandmother had an early one (? smaller rear windows & a different face) in Jewish Racing Gold

Sean63 wrote:

I was thinking (more than thinking, cos I've already made it) using aluminum due to its strength and ease of manipulating/working.

MANY thanks for your offer of styrene, but I'd prefer not to start begging for bits and raiding other peoples spares boxes!

Where would I best get a sheet or two in differing thicknesses . . I guess ebay again?! I think the glue for the styrene has arrived - so I'll be able to build the box sections as suggested.
...

It's no skin off my nose to send you a few offcuts, the nearest postbox is right outside the house next door & I reckon I can get more than you'd need for this in a small jiffy bag for the cost of a 2nd class "Large Letter" stamp. I've done small favours for other TB members, others have done the same for me or others, it all comes round sooner or later


If you want to buy new I'd suggest www.stationroad...rds.co.uk/ , they also sell on eBay at www.ebay.co.uk/...baseboards .

The best value is their mulitple sheets of "seconds" on eBay, they generally have a few shallow scratches on one side, with the other side being fine. IIRC they also do "assortment" listings.

You really are very kind JR - I've noticed that forums in general ( Valve Radio forum certainly) have great people on them - looking to help people out.

If I were not in it for the long haul I'd take your offer immediately, but I have a Clodbuster that needs a new front and rear - so I ideally should be buying styrene in bulk! Photos of that poor thing to follow.

Stupidly I've ordered a sheet from a different ebay seller - looks like good stuff, but was expensive - the guy you linked me to is better

I'll check here more often in future - thanks again

SEAN - oh, the liquid glue is great, but how do you stop it going absolutely everywhere?

Cloddy as promised:

SEAN

Sean63 wrote:

... the liquid glue is great, but how do you stop it going absolutely everywhere?

How big a brush are you using? I'd suggest a #2, round pointed model brush, dimensions are something like 2mm round at the base of the bristles, 12mm long bristles. See www.ebay.co.uk/...4560404453 for example.

IDK if I'd be trying to replace all those missing bits on the Clod when all the parts (or at least re-release) are available new... I'd only be doing the missing bit on the front right wheelarch TBH ...

)

Yes, that is an option, but the body really does not deserve new parts! It is creamed!

AND, those front grills are expensive. I guess everybody has wrecked theirs.

Oh, another favour please! The servo horn on the clod has broken, is this a bespoke part for this model or can others be fitted? It is a round horn with bal-ljoint holes at 180degrees to each other . . .

SEAN

The other vehicle that use the same servo horn is the BullHead, simply a Clod with different body and a few other bits.
I have not owner any of the other monster trucks of that size so I can't tell if anyone else is using those.

Sean63 wrote:

...

Oh, another favour please! The servo horn on the clod has broken, is this a bespoke part for this model or can others be fitted? It is a round horn with bal-ljoint holes at 180degrees to each other . . .

Most standard size servos (even the cheap ones) come with some number of horns, 2, 4 or even 6 arms, sometimes even round discs - any of which should let you put the two brass balljoints the right distance apart.

If you search Ebay for servo horns for the make/model you’re using you might be able to find some, unfortunately there are no end of different fitting types depending on age, brand & servo size - but most servo horns for modern(ish) standard size servos will have the same size fitting, just a different number of splines (teeth).

I don’t think anyone has made a canonical list of what has what, but in my experience for “modern” (mid/late 80s on, Acoms = 23 splines, Hitec, Hobbyking = 24 splines, Futaba (& Tamiya) = 25.