TOPIC:

Today, I worked to understand the exact elements I should use to set my bevel gear in CAD... Decided to work this way, as obviously I was not making it right last time...

I decided to put the gears profiles in the gearbox to understand the exact elements about the gears...


Next step was to include the cone angle from a bevel gear calculator (which is not depending upon the mod or the gear face width, but just of the number of tooth of the pinion and the gear).


I do have now the few key numbers I need to use to design my bevel gears
- Pinion teeth (14)
- Gears teeth (34)
- cone angle 22.38°

(for reference : the bevel gear calculator is here : otvinta.com/bevel.html)

The bevel gears are mandatory to finish the modeling of the few remaining plastic parts (especially considering I'd like to get them printed). Next step if for tomorrow.
 

after some work done, some work undone, done again, undone again and done again, I finally had bevel gears having the right mod and the right dimensions...


The mod is indeed 1.


I did check quickly by positioning those they would fit in the gearbox before doing the adjustments...



I stooped there last night, and restart this morning with the firm intention to get the gears and the diff case done this morning...

After some confusion (360), few mistakes, user issues, I finally have both pinion and gears correct, with their proper dims and seat...



And I did the differential casing after this




Next are the bevel gears inside the differential...

14 and 10 teeth... But why  ????

 

Woohahooo. Awesome work marc 

A bit of work later... I have the differential bevel gears, which are in .8 mod...


And it sits perfectly in the diff case...


Last thing was to repatriate the work done in the Nichimo overal project, position them correctly and...


It's still missing bearings, spacers, and axle, but the transmission parts are in (red because why not )...

 

That's crazy.😲😲😲

After the complex things, time to complete the transmission...

First out diffs, bearings, axles and dogbones...



This morning I added the missing bearings and spacers in the differential and the gearbox.


That allowed me to identify a demi millimeter issue in my diff case (it was too big), and the fact that the bevel gears needed a half millimeter offset in the diff...

And yes, my dogbones are having a design issue, but it's not going to get printed so I don't really care...


I modified the battery holders to allow the usage of 138mm battery packs...

Remains to do :
- front knuckles pivot balls
- radiator
- shocks
- hub and wheels
- bodyshell and wing

At this stage, I did not include any joints neither did considered motion... But considering I'm close, that could be interesting
 

Started my afternoon with the radiator on my desk... I simplified it a bit.


For the small story, there was a radiator bag in the box of the Nichimo Spirit FF and Vantage FF...
It included 3 parts. The radiator, the plate going between the chassis and the skid plate where the bumper is seated, and the motor plate. "Radiator" this is supposed to ease the motor heat transfer... Let's have a look.


Knowing that heat convections makes hot going up and cold going down, I'm not sure how it worked . I guess I will have to take an infrared thermometer to find out if it has this function as well, as my own knowledge tells me this is more weight to get the FF architecture work

As i was in mood to do more today, I decided to tackle the wheels...


Front first and then rear...


The original rims are in two parts. I made them in one single part, kept the holes for decoration, but adapted them to 3mm screws as the original 2.6mm are difficult to find, and adapted the wheel hubs as well... The size of the rims should be fine with Tamiya oval blocks  or supper gripper, or Kyosho Turbo Optima re-release tires (I just have to make it slighty narrow front and rear - about 4mm each).

Remains to do :
- shocks
- front knuckles pivot balls
- bodyshell
- wing
- tires

Decided to add some red again... Red contrasts well with black and that makes it more punchy...


Next was time to add some gum on this thing... Profile over a prokected intersection of the rim and a revolve later here is what I had...


Then played a bit with a tangent plane, some figures (too much to my taste), some extrusions, a profile to recut what was too much addition and tada, I had a front tire...


And the next one was much more easy... 


I'll apply the same principle for the rear ones, but tomorrow...

As planned, I applied the same method for the rear tyres...





There is still a lot of things missing:
- few pivot balls
- shocks
- Air scoop, bodyshell, roof and wing

And I will need to have a look at the rigid groups, pivots and motion as the front suspension is not ins a normal attitude. I need to correct this (the only question I ask myself is why am I doing all of this? )

silvertriple wrote:

For the small story, there was a radiator bag in the box of the Nichimo Spirit FF and Vantage FF...
It included 3 parts. The radiator, the plate going between the chassis and the skid plate where the bumper is seated, and the motor plate. "Radiator" this is supposed to ease the motor heat transfer... Let's have a look.

Knowing that heat convections makes hot going up and cold going down, I'm not sure how it worked . I guess I will have to take an infrared thermometer to find out if it has this function as well, as my own knowledge tells me this is more weight to get the FF architecture work

 

Convection is usually associated with fluid or gas in a tube.  For this I'd say the motor and chassis plates are both just acting as a plain old heatsink, in which case orientation isn't as critical.  Having them under the car would also mean some airflow over the "heatsink", which would be more beneficial than them being right-way-up and placed inside the body.
And like you said, radiator was probably an elaborate way to get some extra weight over the front wheels.
Would be interesting to see how much heat transfer does occur