TOPIC:

does anyone know of the method for wet applying decals to polycarbonate shells? i have heard of people using water with a drop of detergent in so the decals can be moved around for more accurate application? as i will hopefully be doing my super sabre shell if all go's to plan id like to know the correct method to do this? does anyone have any ecperience and can you share any pitfalls.

regards

tamiya wrote:

does anyone know of the method for wet applying decals to polycarbonate shells? i have heard of people using water with a drop of detergent in so the decals can be moved around for more accurate application? as i will hopefully be doing my super sabre shell if all go's to plan id like to know the correct method to do this? does anyone have any ecperience and can you share any pitfalls.

regards

I think you've got it pretty much covered there ... 1 drop of fairy liquid in a large bowl, or half a drop in a plastic takeaway tray, more soap gives you more adjustment time but takes a lot longer to dry, less soap is more grippy & quicker drying.

Don't use TP to squeegee water out, it's just too fibrous. Good quality kitchen roll works well. Keep your fingers wet before you touch the adhesive as it can still pick up fingerprints, if something won't stick, don't keep pushing it as you can rub the colour off. Check your work every couple of hours to see if anything has lifted, and leave it 24 hours before using the shell for the adhesive to "cure", and at least that long if you are planning to clearcoat over them

edit - realised I could have been a bit more clear -

- cut out the decals
- peel off the backing without touching the adhesive (use a craft knife or similar
- dunk the decal in the water
- wet the area on the shell it's going on
- put the decal in place
- adjust
- squeegee out the water/press the decal down: start at one end & work across, or start in the middle and work outwards

thanks for all the advice much appreciated ill post some pics once i have finished the shell off

Using a blow dryer (carefully) could speed up the process for the decals to dry...

just hope it turns out well now, once i had taken off all the stickers for the strip and repaint i started wondering if i had done the right thing or should have left it as was? it did look great when i ran it on saturday, proper old school but the paint was flaking badly and the decals where coming off with it! paintings never been my strong point im better at building the chassis but i wanted this to look right as its a favourite of mine.

Great car! Good luck with the body resto.

One thing I've noticed doing a job like this myself - if it doesn't want to go smoothly at some point, laying it aside for a while and picking it up later (not being slightly frustrated or mad about it) will help give a better result.
And a lot more fun in doing it all...

Btw - for applying smaller decals I use the tip of my hobby knife to put the stickers in place.
A finger always gets in the way when you want to attach it...

yeah i agree my biggest mistakes have been made when im rushing or stressed

i never remember this when im in the thick of the job though ill try to bear it in mind on this one

hopefuly have this sorted well soon as i love the look of it when running it and i have already had a few people say they remembered the car from back in its day

i plan to just fix up the shell then maybe rebuild it with some bearings i think to rip out all the original electrics would be too much. may put a quicker motor in it but to be honest it went very well standard as it is.

not sure if its just me but the bodyshells on these seem difficult to source only team blue groove seem to do a copy?? id prefer to use the original though.

regards

tamiya wrote:

not sure if its just me but the bodyshells on these seem difficult to source only team blue groove seem to do a copy?? id prefer to use the original though.

Probably they are scarce because it also appealed to others to run the car...
TBG makes a great quality product though.

That is a good general technique, however i do have some expertise here. I am currently writing a new article/blog that'll be a step by step instruct on a recipe of what we call "App Juice" in our graphic co. This works on full scale racecars, vehicles, signs, and most general decal application jobs. There are very specific reasons for the exact recipe, and techniques because some decals use different type of addhesives. some can be done "wet", others not. I'll post here again when I have done the article and know for sure how it will work best for us scaled down gear heads, and the wizards up in the main office OK it. Birdman, MadMax, and the Madame.

Tamiyanut - pointers for painting lexan shells - wash the shell thoroughly in hot soapy water, then rinse with clean water, particularly new shells. "Key up" the surface you intend to paint, doesn't need to be heavy sanding, a quick rub with a plastic pan scourer while you're washing it will do. Make sure the shell's thoroughly dry, give it at least a day in the warm & dry. Mask up the bits you don't want paint on, & wash your hands in warm soapy water before handling the shell (Finger grease can spoil your paint). Use only paint designed for use with polycarbonate (Lexan, macrolon) as it's more flexible than normal paint & sticks to the plastic better. Paint the inside, dark colours first. Put thin coats of paint on, just enough to give it colour (You'll never get it properly opaque, so don't try). The thinner the paint, the less likely it will flake off. If using more than 1 colour, give each layer at least a day to dry & go properly hard before putting another layer on top, or the colour will leach through the previous layer. Biggest trick with paint is allow plenty of time for the job & don't rush it, find something else to do whilst waiting for each coat to harden