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also when mine does get wet i use "big car" brake cleaner to evaporate the moisture and it gets rid of any dirt that gets in there as a bonus

eddrick wrote:

Kcey1 - if your ESC got wet & stopped working, take the case off (Or just open it a bit) & thoroughly dry it out (A day or 2 in the airing cupboard etc) & you should find it'll be ok. same goes for receivers etc, most electronics recover once they're dry.

I've heard putting it in a bag of uncooked rice does the trick for electronic gadgets.

Ordered a cheapy ESC from China today.

We'll see what it's like. GBP 6.78 delivered.

I could see the rice trick working, but I think It would be better to just put the damp electronics somewhere warm & dry, so no rice-dust etc gets in & kaks it up.
I'd also make the observation that anything that sucks moisture up can attract it from the atmosphere & behave like a damp sponge in your 'lektrix, which might defeat the object

Martin thats the type i have been using it has a good "punch" works with 15t motor no problem ...my newer one with the capacitor inside the casing isn't quite as good but it is better than some more expensive ones i've used it seems to cut out battery supply to the motor quicker than old one so run times are shorter oh and it took mine 18 days to arrive from newtown-55 but it did arrive

eddrick wrote:

I'd also make the observation that anything that sucks moisture up can attract it from the atmosphere & behave like a damp sponge in your 'lektrix, which might defeat the object

True - that's why you would seal the bag

Martin wrote:

eddrick wrote:

Kcey1 - if your ESC got wet & stopped working, take the case off (Or just open it a bit) & thoroughly dry it out (A day or 2 in the airing cupboard etc) & you should find it'll be ok. same goes for receivers etc, most electronics recover once they're dry.

I've heard putting it in a bag of uncooked rice does the trick for electronic gadgets.

Ordered a cheapy ESC from China today.

We'll see what it's like. GBP 6.78 delivered.

mine died ...am using old version i got 2 years ago now nevermind lol

Are you sure it's dead? What did you do to kill it, out of interest?

If it's coming on but just bleeping (Saying no signal) that can also mean it's having trouble with the TX neutral point - try using the servo-reverse switches &/or trims to see if it'll wake up again. I've had that trouble with less well known radio gear & Acoms Techniplus Alpha. Also, try using the on/off switch on the ESC, as it seems to also act as a reset.

Something else to watch is motor connections & what's forwards/backwards as it isn't immediately obvious with the auto setup programming itself with "whatever works".
To check - set the servo reverse switch to "normal" & switch on the ESC. With the car off the ground, give it full forward (Noting direction of wheels) then immediately full reverse. It should stop, then pause (Braking) then reverse. (Some require a second "reverse" command before they'll actually go backwards). If it's doing this ok but the wheels go backwards when they're supposed to be going forwards, reverse the motor connections, NOT the servo reverser.

IF, when you do this, there's NO pause (ie it immediately reverses) then the motor connections are reversed (Assuming the wheels are going forwards when they're supposed to) & you're actually running the car forward on the reverse FETs, which aren't as resilient as the forward ones, ie it'll lead to fried FETs.
What you need to do in that case is to swap the motor connections over, AND set the servo reverse switch to "reverse" & run the setup again, using the on/off switch.

NOTE these ESCs benefit from using their on/off switch to turn them on/off - just connecting/disconnecting the battery can confuse them, make them lose their "neutral point" memory & cause all sorts of weird operation. I'm guessing the on/off switch is part of a "Zone-Reset" command for the PIC chip program.

Normally as "dead" ESC is the result a fried component, either the PIC (From static or other component failure) or more likely a fried FET (From overload or reverse polarity connection). Normally a dead FET will give operation in one direction but not the other (Or sometimes just a dead spot in the throttle range) if it's gone open circuit, OR everything will be dead (inc radio if you're using the BEC feed) & there'll be smoke &/or lots of heat, if one of the FETs has shorted.

In most cases, if a FET's failed, it will only be one of them, & depending on your skill/ability, it's fairly easy to repair the ESC - just run a multimeter over the FETs to find out which one is open/shorted & buy an identical FET (Using the numbers printed on the original) to replace it with

well firstly the motor(just put it in chassis to test it seemed slower than was expecting (second hand modified)) shorted out after running through a puddle and proceeded to overheat the esc but couldn't get to it quick enough to disconnect if before the esc started to smoke quite badly on taking it out it was not good burnt out chips crumbled inside. not to worry though payday is here and have brushless system on its way ...oh and its waterproof lol

Sounds to me like the 2nd hand modified motor was pulling more current than the ESC wanted to supply (Test this by hooking the motor directly to a battery pack & note if it's any faster like that). The addition of some dirty water (Thus decreasing the motor's effective resistance, and increasing mechanical resistance, causing increased current draw) probably finished it off. Sounds like shorted FET damage, they usually cause exciting failures!