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Hi Sting,

I have an original MR body, unpainted but it has some scratches due it being 20+ years old...
And some decals (2 are missing, don't ask me why, too long ago )


Cheers, Bram

I've found a way to change the look of the body. I've cutted the cracking nose, but not completely. Also i found a way to chop the body down. It's very high because the back is mounted on the gearbox. I'll post some photos after finishing body As i said, i want to use the original MR Body.

Maybe someone can give me a hint, how i can clean up my old 540 Sport Tuned Motor?

dip it in a glass distilled water and run it at 3V for a while whilst moving it up and down a bit.
Then get it dry again, föhn or by using some rice (just lay the motor in a cloth on the rice.
and put some oil on the bearings

What sort of kak are you trying to clean off?

-dirty/tarnished commutator - best way to clean is get the motor apart & give it a skim on the old comm lathe, but if you haven't got one, or the motor can't be dismantled, use a refill from a glass-fibre brush, through the motor vent holes, apply gentle pressure & rotate the motor spindle slowly. This will make the comm shiny again, but won't get rid of carbon residue from between the segments of the comm or make it round again (Not really important if good performance isn't a requirement).
A brief underwater run as Waterbok said, will also do the job (Not as thoroughly though) & will also get rid of any dry carbon dust, so do it anyway. Make sure you oil the bearings first!

- rust will need removing & painting over to stop it coming back - I use plastic pan scourers where it's only surface rust (3M Scotchbrite pads), or wet-n-dry abrasive paper if the rust is particularly bad/bumpy.

- oily black stuff inside - I give them a good splosh about in diesel (Or central heating oil) to get rid of the oily stuff, then a splosh about in hot soapy water (Soap being clothes washing detergent), a rinse in clean hot water, let it dry somewhere warm for a few days, then recharge the bearings with oil.

To recharge bronze bushes with oil, heat the motor up (No more than 100degC, in the oven), put a drop or 2 of oil on the bearings, then leave it to cool - the heat will get rid of any left over moisture soaked up by the bearings, & the heating/cooling will "suck" new oil into them (They're porous, like a sponge). The heat might (Not always) damage paint/stickers, so just keep an eye on it when doing this. Too much heat will damgage plastic parts (eg plastic endbell, plastic front rotor spacer) & posibly the enamelling on the windings.
A trick to check the temperature - stick an ovenproof container with a small amount of water in it in the oven next to the motor - if the water starts boiling, take the motor out (Meaning, the temp's more than 100degC).

If the motor has ballraces, best option is to throw them away & replace with new ones - of there's dirt & grit on/in the motor, it will be in the bearings too, & if it's ever been run like that the bearings will be knackered

To clean a motor, You can imerge it in alcohol (90°). The problem is that it's relatively dangerous. You have to make that in exterior. Some motors took fire. But it is efficient.

Ooooke, i'll try it with water first
But how can i get the 3V on it? Small Batterie?

Btw... i've bought a complete Monster Truck Chassis without Body! Might be a Big Foot but will be a Monster Beetle

COOL!!!
Nice surprise

I put some voltage from my power supply on it but a battery should also work...
Mind the volume of your computer :

Younger,
I learned on RC magazines, that this method was used for the grinding of the motors. In water or in alcohol to limit the heating of the motor.

Running motors in alcohol? Interesting childhood you must've had! I take it the alcohol has to be sampled for suitably long enough to make this method a viable idea?.

I really don't think it's a good idea suggesting people mix electricity with volatile liquids, it never ends well & although I don't want to be the one to say it, there are some people out there dumb enough to try it.
Granted, an immersed motor won't catch fire, but any sparking from the comm or temporary wiring is very likely to ignite any fumes/vapour above the liquid, especially if the motor has warmed it up