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58087 Manta Ray Resto from 1990 11 years 3 months ago #18344

I learn it in RC magazines. Some competitiors made that to grinding their motors. To avoid to warm it. I personaly never made it. I don't see why put an electric part in a liquid... It was the"grande mode" when I was younger. I was interested to make the tamiya cup with my clio but I had no enough money. And I informated me to enter in the competition.

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58087 Manta Ray Resto from 1990 11 years 3 months ago #18349

Running a low voltage dc motor under water is fine, it won't give you a shock or hurt anything.

I was told the water makes the brushes arc (Spark) which makes them wear to the shape of the commutator more quickly than running the motor in the car. The water also helps wash away the removed carbon brush dust.

The reason for doing it is that a comm-shaped (Curved) brush has more contacting surface area than a square un-worn brush, so that theoretically it can pass more current whilst at the same time run cooler.
It also slightly affects brush/comm timing - the front edge of a shaped brush makes contact with the next segment of the spinning comm sooner than the middle of an un-worn one (Can you visualise that?).

I was just pointing out that you have to be careful what you say/suggest when it comes to dangerous substances & the general public.
Most of us are sensible enough to know that it's a bad idea to be mixing electrical fire with petrol, but some don't....
eg, If you suggest running a motor in alcohol, some people might take that to mean "Run it in a mixture of water & iso-alcohol", some might take it to mean "Run it in a glass of Jack Daniels" (Neither of which will cause any real problems), whereas others might be reaching for the neat isopropyl alcohol, methylated spirit, methanol, ethanol or even petrol, which would probably land them in hospital quite quickly at the very least!

It's also worth noting that as well as being easy to ignite, the fumes of most alcohols burn with an invisible flame, meaning that by the time you realise stuff around you is spontaneously bursting into flame for "no reason", the puddle of burning liquid/vapour has probably already spread much further than you can get under control, & before you know it, you have no house, posessions, pets, loved ones, neighbours etc

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58087 Manta Ray Resto from 1990 11 years 3 months ago #18378

:y: Ok Eddrick, but I am completely in disaccord with you about the motor in a glass of Jack. I prefer personaly run with this type of gasoline. :lol: :laugh: :silly: :lol: :woohoo: :blush:

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58087 Manta Ray Resto from 1990 11 years 3 months ago #18388

As you can see, i've remove the rear space with mount and hole for old cooling system. I'll use some rests of lexan to build a bridge for a new, lower position to mount it directly on the rear gear box. Body is much lower on the chassis than before.



Also i've removed a part of the nose.



Still i have to remove the color and repaint it but i can do this only outside at better wether.
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58087 Manta Ray Resto from 1990 11 years 3 months ago #18394

Yep Stingray, Jack & modified motors always makes for good entertainment!

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58087 Manta Ray Resto from 1990 11 years 2 months ago #18434

:y: Jack is the best coach.

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58087 Manta Ray Resto from 1990 11 years 2 months ago #18437

:woohoo: And now...
The amazing DOT4ed Manta Ray body :cry: :n:




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58087 Manta Ray Resto from 1990 11 years 2 months ago #18438

?

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58087 Manta Ray Resto from 1990 11 years 2 months ago #18440

:)
I am waiting the Brammeijer one.
But I wanted to show you the DOT4 disaster :blink:

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58087 Manta Ray Resto from 1990 11 years 2 months ago #18441

Have a couple of JDs than it want look so bad. :whistle:

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