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I've started building up my Willy, so I'm beginning to get an idea of what I've got spare that might be useful for yours - though TBH, where I had duplicates I've cherrypicked the best/matching bits for my build: * Radius Arms/balljoints: no * Gears: diff gears & shafts, idler with shaft for lower gearbox & slipper clutch gear all all pretty good, shaft on the slipper clutch is not that good, metal idler for lower gearbox is worn pointy, plastic idler for upper gearbox & pinion are shocking / * Part of new WW2 "K" sprue - parts 9 (windscreen Support), 5, 6 + two of 4 (bars + clamp bits that run between the two loops), 7 & 8 (angle bits from the rear loop - but no clamp bits) * headlamps & steering wheel/column (used) * used gearbox casings (three plastic & one ally), plus the triangular doodad on the bottom + two idler shafts, plus the two mazak ball parts, and the big ally tube; * two rear hubs (used) * four wheel inserts (plastic, not the foam); * driveshafts; * pair of trailing arms (one is a bit chewed up, the other has a bit of paint on it), + the rear shock mounts (both ally & brass), the four ball cup bits, and a pair of LWB rear arm pivots (both inexplicably bent); * bag of used fasteners. |
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From personal experience (and I know eddrick has had it too) - it's exceptionally difficult to sell homemade repro parts or accessories, let alone break even |
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Ah... just committed myself & lashed out for body bits....
I won't know exactly what I'll need until I rip it to bits, but I know thre's something horribly wrong with the gearbox, so I may well come begging you for some bits! For some reason I don't like starting a project until I can see I've got or can get everything needed to do it without stopping, so it could be some time yet. Here's a good question then - what differences are there between a LWB & a SWB (Other than the distance between front & rear wheels) - is it done with just the ally brackets or are there some other special bits? Anybody got any ideas why Tamiya "upgraded" the SWB to LWB?
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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Re: tyres - on the face of it, & assuming all went to plan, it'll cost about 20GBP per tyre (Possibly per pair) JUST for the 2-pack high hardness silicone. Add on a bit for time & effort & you'd be looking at say 30 quid a tyre, & who's gonna pay that?!
Further looking might turn up some cheaper liquid rubber that would do the job, I don't know if latex could be made harder, but it's definately loads cheaper. What you need is proper rubber, which needs heat, chemicals, angry stirreramometers & proper metal mechanical moulding hingmas
Custom F2
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Hilux crossmember drawing
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F2 axle drawing
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Quattro radio lid
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Holiday Buggy motor bracket drawing
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Quattro resto
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HitnMiss engine
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Wild Willy resto
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Mardave Cobra resto
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Thunder Dragon resto
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Grasshopper resto
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XR311 resto
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Modded XR311
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Carbon 25th scratch build
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Yeah looked into that myself, but I was actualy thinking in the direction of HongKong or China (anybody an idea were RC4WD gets its tires made?) |
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quite a lot, apparently - check out www.tamiyaclub....4612_4.jpg & www.tamiyaclub....4612_5.jpg . As to why it was "upgraded", my guess would be that people were finding that oncer they'd got their Willy up it was very difficult to get it down again - especially with 7.2v power |
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You can get a new set of genuine tyres for 60 to 80 GBP, used sets 20 to 30 GBP ... I don't know what someone would pay for a repro set ... maybe 20 GBP? I can't see why people get enthused by the Blazing Blazer, yes it was based on a geniune vehicle, but it was one that had the ugly stick taken to it What I think, and what anyone thinks in the west is of no consequence to Tamiya as far as re-res go, as far as I can tell - to me it seems that two cars per chassis is inevitable, and it's the 2nd best (as fat as Tamiya are concerned) that gets produced first, then Tamiya's "best" second, although I think production costs will be a larger part of that decision now ... what would it take for a Mountaineer re-re? Different boxart, a slightly revised manual, different stickers & omit the sleeper cab from the Bruiser.... got to be cheaper than the new body for the BB, or for the Hilux 4x4 - which yould be my second choice for the chassis |
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Does it have to be that hard? And do they have to be a traditional tyre construction? What about a self skinning (closed cell) black foam "donut"? I'm thinking that would be much easier to make a mould for, and if they end up a zero cheaper, then poor wear wouldn't be an issue? edit - 30 GBP a tire ... maybe if you made them pink, dug up packaging that proved they were a period upgrade, then waited for the ink to dry ... |
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Last edit: by Jonny Retro.
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Ah yes, I see what you mean - change the number of paddles very slightly, change the lettering to "Beach Tyres Limited" & there's no copyright issue |
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Found some Willy boots for you eddrick -
cgi.ebay.co.uk/...0944674785
- 55 GBP + 4 GBP postage for a pair of used tyres
I don't know whether to call that profiteering, being totally unrealistic, or someone just chancing their arm, but I paid less than half that for a set of 4 |
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Last edit: by Jonny Retro.
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