TOPIC:

maybe the TEU-106bk and 2 torque tuned 54358s will do the trick (depending when those will be available)

You don't need a "dual" ESC to run 2 motors, a regular ESC will work just fine as long as, as mentioned, your ESC supports a single engine with 1/2 the turns of one of your doubles. A couple ESCs which don't specifically have dual motor outputs but are very popular with Clod owners are the Novak Super Duty and older Super Rooster.

eddrick wrote:

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Has anyone ever tried rigging up 2x ESCs in parallel? Off the top of my head I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work.... (Probably have to ditch the speed/econ switch though)
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I've done it with two Tamiya TEU101BK ESCs - Y lead to split the connection from the RX to both ESCs, connect just one of the ESC RX power leads, and a Y-lead to split the power from the battery to box ESCs... If you want to do it with two "normal" ESCs (ones without a separate RX power connector), you'd need to cut the +VE wire in the servo lead ESC -> RX connection on one of the ESCs.

Two battery setups - I know they haven't been mentioned yet but they are a possibility to get run times about the same as a regular RC car - my thoughts/experience are that you need two batteries of the same type, capacity, age/use profile & state of charge, and plugging one battery in to each ESC is not a good idea as the rear motor/ESC battery works much harder & the battery will go flat quicker, potentially meaning that the truck ends up dragging its back end around like a dog with worms ... I just made up an X-lead so the batteries were pulling together.

I've tried faster motor setups (in my Super Clod & Wild Dagger), in the end I've gone back to twin silvercan & single ESC setups & got my speed fix from more suitable cars.



TBH I think we scared Bullhead69 off with TMI - even before eddrick implied he was a cheapskate

Edou wrote:

Okay, posting simultaneously with waterbok made the first bit I wrote out of context...
It would really be an improvement I think if the forum software detects this and gives the option to alter the text...

I think that's a pretty standard complaint for forum software - think about & type a long reply & you get overtaken by memmbers banging in a quick one

Personally I don't like the "time since" things were posted in the Kahuna (I CBA to look up the correct spelling) software - I think a "posted at" time would be more useful, and possibly a "started replying at" time too.

Hi - First chance I've had to read replies. Just wanted to say thanks for the replies so far. I should have mentioned it was my first post and ought to introduce myself in the appropriate section.

Here's a couple of quick answers while I have 2mins.
>Battery fairly new and is an ansmann (which I chose)
- this is charged right to the best of my knowledge which isn't that great (slow charge overnight)
>Electrics on car (esc/motors) are what came with it when I bought it from ebay
>I'll look at wiring re power/ecomomy
>Not afraid to try any kind of wiring
>Not scared off yet

Will reply better when I'm back home, cheers...

Talking electrics can be stimulating for the RC spirit.
Especially when the car is an interesting case...

Doesn't sound like the battery packs are the problem.
A slow charge should also work. Just keep in mind that when you're charging 200mAh for example, it would need about 14 hours to get full. Charging too long, even with a trickle isn't something NiMHs particularly like though.
You may want to get a "smart" charger...

And I remember where I saw the reverse rotation motor - it was a Kyosho :

frog66's topic

To clarify, you mean tuned motors as a pair, one to go faster forward, one to go faster backwards, (Rather than use generic same-speed-fwd/bwd motors) to match the mirrored front/rear gearboxes?

I Like Waterbok's idea, yes you can rig the steering fairly easily with 2x servos to give independent front/rear steer, but it would require a bit of enginuity on how/where to mount the servos & do the linkages, probably axle-mounted, but maybe there's enough room in the chassis to stack the servos above one another? Axle-mounted would be better to get rid of some of the huge amount of slop in the steering. The rest of the slop could be fixed by sorting the suspension linkages out.

By paralleling ESCs, I actually meant in the simplest form, ie hook the battery inputs together, hook the Rx connections together, leave the motor outputs to the 2x motors separate. I'd guess it would be best to use both ESCs the same type, & manual setup rather than auto-setup to avoid any "intelligent device" related conflicts. Seems to me there shouldn't be a problem feeding both ESCs with the same power source & the same Rx signal output, as long as there's no common connection at the motor output (So, yes, you'd have to ditch the speed/econ switch).
You'd still be looking at 40+ quid for a pair of cheapy ESCs verses a fiver for 1x MSC that was built to do the job though, & any "current limiting self-protection" feature of the ESCs would reduce the truck's climbing ability, not to mention, taking "swimming" out of the list of fun things to do with it

eddrick wrote:

To clarify, you mean tuned motors as a pair, one to go faster forward, one to go faster backwards, (Rather than use generic same-speed-fwd/bwd motors) to match the mirrored front/rear gearboxes?

Yes, indeed. But I was just wondering where I'd seen them...
Much easier of course would be to get two motors like you described and switch the wires on one of them.

Just thought I'd add my 2 cents worth. In my Bullhead I first ran a Dynamite Tazer 10 turn Lipo safe ESC. I wired it still making use of the standard Power/Economy switch for that original feeling. The motors used in this case was 2 Sport tuned (black can) motors, and it ran great.

Since then, I've now installed 2 Tamiya TEU 101BK ESCs, one on each sport tuned. But here is the catch, The front ESC/motor combo is plugged into the AUX channel of my Spektrum DX3S 2.4GHZ radio, and the rear ESC/motor combo is plugged into the THROTTLE channel. Then on my radio, I use channel mixing THROTTLE and AUX, this way I can set the amount of power to both. I now am running it 40% on the front, 100% on the rear.

It works perfectly...

Thanks for the replies so far, I've done an "introduce yourself" to see who I am!
It will help you see what my perception of speed comes from and I guess you are right I probably shouldn't expect it to be as fast as a Luchbox!

See attached diagram of how it is wired up.


Motors:
Certainly if the clash motors have litle torque I can understand that they would struggle to move such a heavy beast. I can understand that a motor might run better one way round than the other but am a bit lost when you talk about timing. I do understand that as the motors are running in opposite directions that they need to run in both directions with the same speed. It's interesting to read that silver cans are so well recommended for the bullhead - I guess they do a good job for little money. I presume this is the sort of silver can I'd be after here unless I dig deeper and ge two sport tuned black cans.

Battery:
I think the battery is ok as it has worked really well on the other cars (a fact you will not have know until now), I was more concerned if it was not man enough for this beast.

ESC:
I did not know about the way in which ESCs are rated, not sure I still understand the whole motor turns parameter yet. I can understand that an MSC is a very different beast as it is just a mechanical switch moved by a servo. From what I'ev read in the replies the ESC is no good for the job. If I stick with ESC I eitehr need a second (one per motor) or I need a stronger ESC to run both together.

MISC:
Bullhead was not covered in oil!