TOPIC:

andyaus wrote:

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Yeah, yeah...

OK, small update re front axles.
The Mardave axles are just pressed into the carriers and held with a knurled section on the shaft. They are 5mm all the way along.
Looked at some Hornet axles and found they are also 5mm dia, but held in by the kingpin through a cross drilled hole.


I pressed the Hornet axle into the Mardave carrier and used the M3 hole in the end (formerly for a grub screw) to fit a screw to stop it falling out. Once the wheel and bearings are fitted it should stop it moving the other way..


Fitted to the suspension:

The screw head fouls on the suspension, so I need to counterbore the back of the carrier and/or fit a screw with a flatter head.

Fitted with a wheel:

Just did a bit of measuring, "button head" m3 hex screws have a 1.75mm head height vs. 2.95mm for cap heads, pozidrive cheese heads 2.4mm, Tamiya M3 machine screws (the cross and slot headed ones with the dot, I can't remember what the official name is) are 2mm - how much space have you got to save?

Thanks JR. The bit in the carrier on the Tamiya axle is about 2-3mm shorter than the Mardave one, so I can drill the back of the carrier to a depth of 2-3mm without a problem. If I do that and use a posi screw (or maybe a countersunk hex screw ) It should pretty flush on the back.
I don't anticipate any problem, I've just got to get round to doing it

Fantastic!
I was gonna suggest drilling a hole in the knuckle to fit a screw through the Tamiya kingpin hole in the axle to secure it, but this is a far better idea! (Forgot about the tapping in the back of the Tamiya axle...)

eddrick wrote:

Fantastic!
I was gonna suggest drilling a hole in the knuckle to fit a screw through the Tamiya kingpin hole in the axle to secure it, but this is a far better idea! (Forgot about the tapping in the back of the Tamiya axle...)

That was my first thought too, but I didn't trust myself to get the hole accurate enough with my limited range of hand tools (poor workman and all that). This makes my life much easier - I just have to get some short M3 screws - I think countersunk will be best if I can get them, then I'll just countersink the back of the knuckle using the original hole as a guide.

Have a look at BOLTMEUP on Ebay, that's who I usually use for fasteners, they've always been quick & reliable for me

Bunch of fasteners ordered from Boltmeup

I know I'm getting ahead of myself here, but I was thinking about colour schemes. I would like to go for a black "stealth" look for the chassis and I was already thinking of painting the cast metal parts and the FRP chassis satin black to match the Apache suspension.

For the body, I was originally thinking about going strictly box-art as a contrast to the very non-stock chassis, however last night I had another thought: Box art pattern, but with gloss/metallic black and satin black.
For the metallic I am thinking about Ford Panther Black. This is a gloss black with a very subtle metallic fleck in it. I had a Mondeo in this colour once and it looked wicked.
This is the sort of effect I was imagining:

Well I like black on black for some schemes, however I think with this scale the body detail may get lost? still you can do it and change your mind if it doesn't meet the standard you want cheers andy....

I think that could look quite good

How are you planning to do it? 2 sorts of paint? 1 and satin lacquer? How about carbon fibre look stickum?

I was going to use 2 types of paint, but I'm open to suggestions. Carbon look might be cool - do you know where I can get "carbon fibre look stickum"?
Or the 1:1 boys use matte vinyl - another possibility.