TOPIC:

Agemax, notice how this TRF damper has a hole in the top cap.
The thingy on the right is fitted inside - this is also how you can make your short silver shocks work...

Depends how hard your rubber tube is - silicon would be too soft, you'd need somethig like the rubber tube Tamiya supplies for chopping into bump stops for dampers. I often use this method for getting the slop out of shock mounts or making "ball links" for servo rods

eddrick wrote:

the rubber tube Tamiya supplies for chopping into bump stops for dampers

Does the rigidity of this increase when you put it under pressure?



First time I see that stuff...

Idea is the tube is left longer than the hole it's in, then when you crank the adjuster nut down, it's trying to cram the excess rubber into the hole, thus making the assembly harder to move (Because you've effectively removed any 'give' in the rubber) - similar sort of thing to the rubber radio box mounts on an SRB - if loose, the box wangs about, but when tight it's more or less rigid. More importantly, note how the rubber 'swells' as you pull it tight, now imagine the rubber having its 'swelling' restricted by putting it in a tubular hole

It is an interesting suggesting...
Starting to sounds like a real improvement to be able to have another method of adjustment.
As a consequence the T-bar will also be slightly height adjustable.
Stiffer will mean the front of the chassis becomes a bit lower if I'm not mistaken...
I'll need to create some spacers to replace the nuts underneath the battery tray then so the screws are not fixated.

Even though I've spent quite some time fiddling with the front bumper there's no success so far...
Problem is that the body posts are tilted ever so slightly which makes a big difference because they are so long.
I'll take some pics later to clarify.

Clinching nuts - so the black Group C wheel hubs are functional!
The wheels can now be screwed on... with titanium that is.


Still a bit of modding to do on the bumper... that won't go easy.

Eddrick, how difficult (read expensive) would it be in your opinion to fabricate these Group C wheel hubs in aluminium?

I finally got the wheelbase right! Really really ready to run!


Next will be the video footage...

That looks absolutely fantastic! You've made a lovely job of it!
Aluminium Group C hubs - difficult to say, it's one of those things that if it would sell well & you find someone who'd recognise that, you're likely to get them a lot cheaper than going to an engineering firm & asking "make 2 of these, ta". Eg, a privateer would probably do them for 20-20gbp a piece & make loads more to sell (If they'd be popular) but I'll bet you'd be looking at 200gbp for a pair custom made by an engineering firm. It's not material costs, it's man hours/setting up time - it wouldn't cost much more for 10 off verses 2 off.
Post another pic of exactly which bits you mean with just some rough measurements (To get a feel for size)

Thanks, I'll do some fiddling on the shell too. To touch it up and reinforce...
Here's some final shots of the chassis :


And the final list of (upgraded) assembly :

- F102 carbon chassis and modified FRP upper deck
- Vintage aluminium motor heatsink (#53106 - thank you Lars)
- TRF damper with black spring
- Kawada carbon rear axle
- 3Racing titanium turnbuckles and high torque servo saver (3RAC-SHAMU)
- Front suspension with RD king pins (#53119) and carbon reinforced knuckles (#54154)
- Black Group C wheel hubs
- F103 T-bar (#50505) and friction plate
- TRF pivoted battery holder (#53273)
- Kawada RD (8-ball) 0.4mod 99T spur
- F103RS diff and axle parts
- F103GT gearcase parts and axle spacer
- One piece ball thrust diff bearing (#53136)
- 3 pcs. 1280 ball bearing
- 6 pcs. 3x8mm titanium countersunk hex head screw
- 6 pcs. 3x10mm titanium round head screw
- 10 pcs. 3x12mm titanium tapping screw
- 2 pcs. 3x15mm titanium tapping screw
- 2 pcs. 3x18mm titanium countersunk head screw
- 4 pcs. 3x35mm Square STR-335 titanium countersunk hex head screw
- 2 pcs. silver aluminium 4mm flanged lock nuts
- 1 hard steel black hex head 5mm ball end

The list will be updated with parts numbers...

Eddrick, I'll post some pics with the general dimensions of the wheel hubs.
Got some interesting plans for the next one (F103) too...