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Rought Rider resto 11 years 2 months ago #18420

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Rought Rider resto 11 years 2 months ago #18421

Cool another classic restored by Manotas :woohoo:
Gl i will be following this one!

Cheers, Bram
Restoring Countach 58005
Restoring 58015 RR
Restoring 58098 F40
Restoring King Cab and Monsterracer
Restoring Audi Quattro rally
Restoring Mk.1 Sand Scorcher
Restoring Porsche 936
The following user(s) Liked this: Manotas

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Rought Rider resto 11 years 2 months ago #18422

Hi Martin,

Yeah, i've been reading about RR Mk1 on the internet and Tamiyaclub and saw that the mounting tabs brake off easily...at least something intact on the car.

The gears seem to be ok, but i still need to clean and inspect them closely. If i need some i'll let you know thank you !

Aynway those rims will dissapear in the same box as the Bruiser rollbars :lol: :lol:

I think i will use some re-re parts for the ones that have no influence on the look such as universal joints with the benefit of being stronger.

Well for electronic box it's another story, i've been looking on E-bay for original ones unfortunately without any results...

Concerning the front bumper, as it's made of black plastic i suspect it's a re-re one..could someone please confirm?
I found this one that looks like a vintage one



Also noticed that this seller has many vintage RR parts for sale ! I might check all the listed items and make a global order.
Proud owner of the Bruiser Family

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Rought Rider resto 11 years 2 months ago #18423

Proud owner of the Bruiser Family

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Rought Rider resto 11 years 2 months ago #18424

...
Concerning the front bumper, as it's made of black plastic i suspect it's a re-re one..could someone please confirm?...


Not necessarily - SRB bumpers started black, then were beige, re-re ones are all black.


I don't have an original black one to check, but vintage beige ones have "TAMIYA PLASTIC MODEL CO." on the underside and "1/10 RC RACING BUGGY MADE IN JAPAN" on the inside; black re-re ones have "TAMIYA PLASTIC MODEL CO." on the underside and ">ABS< 58015/0979050-00 (c) 1979 2009 TAMIYA" on the inside.

A mk.1 Rough Rider should have a black bumper, so unless yours says 2009 on the inside, it's the correct original one :L

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Rought Rider resto 11 years 2 months ago #18425

After some investigation/taking pictures and comparing with the thread on tamiyaclub i'm almost sure it's a Mk1.

Gear box cover





Front Arms Mk1 type



Front Bumper, as Jonny wrote the inscription on the bumper is "RC Racing Bugy Made in Japan" and there is no other marking. Therefore i think its an original one




Servo saver, also Mk1 type



Rear Arms, as there are 2 bearings slots -> Mk1 type !



Ok, now i'm fixed and learned lot's about Rough Riders...
Already found some original Mk1 parts on E-bay





Hoping that i'll win those auctions...

Thanks for looking and for your help helping me to identify this car :y:
Proud owner of the Bruiser Family

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Rought Rider resto 11 years 2 months ago #18426

Yes, It's a MK1.
Be aware that the re-re "Sand Blaster JR" front tyres do not have lettering on them, if you're being a stickler for originality.
These are an interesting alternative:


Also, you are bidding on "Super Champ" decals, not Rough Rider.

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Last edit: by Martin Bell.

Rought Rider resto 11 years 2 months ago #18432

Fastener head type is quite important if you plan to keep it original - the MK1 used slotted M2 screws, whereas later ones use the more common slotted/cross headed type.

Be careful when searching for "MK1" SRB parts, some people (Not in the know) class vintage SRBs as MK1 & the re-release (Buggy Champ etc) as MK2.

Stripped threads in the front suspension arms is normal, as are the sloppy UJs, they get like that if they've been used
The UJs will clean up nicely (If you decide to re-use them) if you degrease them first, them soak them overnight in a glass of vinegar or fizzy drink, or soak them for an hour in "Cillit Bang".

Unless you're really lucky & manage to find a good MK1 front suspension arm to replace the stripped one, your best option would be to carefully re-drill & tap it in another location. I haven't found any alternative repair that works successfully for any length of time.
If you want it to look original, you can always CA glue a grubscrew into the stripped hole, just to make it look right (It won't work as a screw, it will just be there to look right)

It would be worth trying to recover the rubber grommet from the motor wires if you can, originals are rare.

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Rought Rider resto 11 years 2 months ago #18524

Thanks for your hints Eddrick ! I appreciate

Found and bought this one ! I just made an offer to the seller and fortunately he accepted my price...of course a bit lower than the listed price :y:



Got me also one of those, circuit breaker



Still waiting for this one to end

:y:
Proud owner of the Bruiser Family

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Last edit: by Manotas.

Rought Rider resto 11 years 2 months ago #18529

Until the parts i ordered arrive i started working on the body.

Took the decals off, well almost all of them. I cold save many of them but some were already dammaged or scratched so i had no other choice than destroy them :( :(
However i think i saved the most important ones, likely those you can't find on E-Bay or even old companies/sponsor's that no longer exist.

Saved decals



Body ready for DOT4 bath





The driver was glued and taped with double face taped...The double face came off quite easily...it was another story for the glued part. Fortunately i did no dammage the driver taking it off, at least not more that he actually is

The driver is also having a DOT4 bath at the moment





Proud owner of the Bruiser Family

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