TOPIC:

Here the previous picture of the plates.
The red dots are the points where I made holes. The red arrows shown the place where I made holes, on the side of the taller plate.
Then I also drilled the diff cups and the spur gear.
I also replaced the iron gear axle shafts with carbon fiber tubes.
The weight saving was very good because is on rotating masses.
Keep in mind that if you have original heavy plates the weight saving with the holes will be more but the total weight of the complete diff will be yet more than a drilled lightweight diff.
If you wanna see the light with performance you must balance the wheels. You can do this job with an r/c plane propeller balancer and some self adhesive lead tape.

Max

funkindemup wrote:

Apart from buying less weight parts, i'm still thinking about how to get lost of weight.
Kontemax, where did you put the holes into the diff?
Is it useful to make holes into the maingear as it is at modern maingears?than good.

cheese, thats a lot of holes

A bit blasphemous (considering the rarity of the parts nowadays) but very cool.

Kontemax wrote:

The weight saving was very good because is on rotating masses.

Very true indeed. The next chapter to this topic.

When I did it these parts were non so rare

Max

Hmmm, since the 17T is running with gold contacts, the front gearbox smells like melting plastic... I think it's the part where the shaft is mountend. Maybe using the wrong grease? It's a good one from graupner.

I think I've seen an example where the diff joint was hitting (and rubbing on) the gearbox...

I'm currently searching for new dampers for the MR. Is it ok to use 100mm with spacer to get them to 94/87mm? Should i get 100/90? Are there any known sets from 3racing? There are no measures at their website...

Spacing 'em down 13mm sounds like a lot...
I'd go for 85-90 myself. Or 90 all around.
Don't think 3Racing makes any dampers where you don't end up with another set of short ones.
Seems they only produce them by model...
I like Gmades myself, think they come in 85 and 93mm.
There's some decent Ansmanns with a Hi-Capish look to it too.

Aren't the gmades very expensive? I don't like the Ansmanns. They're making good batterys but the rest is not so good.
The 3racing-dampers would look very nice and also they're producing nice parts! Maybe i'll buy 2 sets and sell or keep the other 4 dampers.
Edou, about the correct lenght. At dampers of manta ray you have to put a small plastic spacer into both of them and a bigger one into the short one for the front. Can i put these also into dampers of 3racing, yeah racing & co? Which range of damper size can i use at the top-force shocktower?

funkindemup wrote:

Aren't the gmades very expensive? I don't like the Ansmanns. They're making good batterys but the rest is not so good.
The 3racing-dampers would look very nice and also they're producing nice parts! Maybe i'll buy 2 sets and sell or keep the other 4 dampers.
Edou, about the correct lenght. At dampers of manta ray you have to put a small plastic spacer into both of them and a bigger one into the short one for the front. Can i put these also into dampers of 3racing, yeah racing & co? Which range of damper size can i use at the top-force shocktower?

Gmades aren't the cheapest but I think they're very good. And they look the youknowwhat.

www.junfac.com/...cts_id=507

Same price range as a double set of 3Racings...
I think most damper shafts are 3mm so I'm quite sure the Manta Ray parts will fit on many other shocks.
Haven't tried all the lengths yet but I think you might get trouble if you go shorter than 85mm or longer than 95.