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I've read a discussion about one-piece shafts. A not-one piece is a little spacer to damp the gearboxes from heavy hits at jumps or full throttle with big motors. After the motor mount, it's the second gpm part which is not working properly... are there more? Let's open a thread about quality of gpm parts I'll have a look to fit the shaft. The dogbone is just in fine condition. I'll try some o-rings or a part of a tube to fix this. I've already thought at mounting this, that it is very short. Also there was the problem, touching the front gearbox. It's not the best part at all... Maybe better for ta02. |
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Probably you didn't see a 11x2... eheheheh!!!
My more faster and powerful motor was a 12x3, I also had a 11x5 but is was "softer" but with more speed, it was more endurance motor. In my local track the most powerful brushed motor I ever seen was a 6x1. A real monster! Unusable. Max
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Last edit: by Kontemax.
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Max, can you tell me something about setting up the MR for offroad track with jumps? Thick oil, soft springs? how to setup the suspension?
I've fixed the problem with the GPM Shaft with some O-Rings. Also I've made some improvements: Car is getting blue. Motor was setup with a ratio of nine and the 17T want to have 8. I think i'll change it to 21/69er setup. The power was to heavy, car wants to jack up all the time |
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Last edit: by funkindemup.
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I used the Top Force/Manta Ray on the track some years ago so now don't remember well.
Anyway I used very soft oil with little holes, two (or three?) on front and three (or four?) on rear if I remember well. I used Hi Cap Dampers with Losi's colored springs, light blue on front and light green on rear. Don't remember the spring rates but you can easy find it somewhere on the net, I suppose on Losi's website. At the end I used a little bit harder set up on front dampers than rear to avoid over steering. Also too much hard springs on rear end kick up the rear end of the car during jumps and in rough straight lines. But keep in mind I used heavy Ni-Mh batteries. Now with Li-Po every set up changes. A very good starting point is this one. Put your car ready to run on a table. Lifts up the rear end of three or four fingers and let it fall on the table. The bottom of the car must not slam on the table, or must beat just barely. When the suspensions extend observes the semi axes. They must be perfectly horizontal. This is a good set up to start. Repeat with the front. Then adjust accordingly on the track. If the car is oversteering stiffen the front springs, if it kicks up on the rear end soften the rear springs. Max
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Last edit: by Kontemax.
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I think i'll change the gear ratio first I'm more interested in a sway bar/stabilizer for ta01 but they're really rare... Does anyone know if it is possible to use stabilizers from other ta's for the ta01/df01? |
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With some modification TA02 rear stabilizer bar can be mounted on Manta Ray/Top Force but it's not needed on the off road track.
Max
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Thanks about the infos, Max.
I'm also using NimH at the MR. I don't think i'll buy a BL/Lipo for it. Are you satisfied with the df03 chassis or also using more advanced tamiya chassis like the shaft-driven db02? |
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I'm really satisfied by the DF03 chassis. It is the faster 4WD buggy I ever had and is very very good for my purposes. I don't need any car faster than the DF03 and, at the end, I don't like belt drive cars.
Max |
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