TOPIC:

Edou wrote:

I don't think a new thread would be necessary - it's actually very good to keep all this info together.
Was just thinking about something like "Grasshopper mods and straight line stability" to cover the content a bit more.

oops, sorry boss, i already started a new one,delete it and change the name of this thread if you think that is best

Will do. I was just thinking this has become a very informative thread that deserved to get a redefined title.
You can tell me what you want it to be - that's your prerogative of course.

Keep them updates coming please!

And I wouldn't want to waste the work you put in this summary :

agemax wrote:

ok so hopping up my vintage grasshopper, some might say why? but its fun and its a challenge.
new motor,esc already fitted, new wheels and other cosmetic bits.
my last challenge is to uprate the shocks.
so far i have done the following..
spacers to increase the wheelbase on the wider front wheels
hornet rear top and bottom shock mounts

next question is shocks, cva is good i hear for the rear but the front is a problem.
SIR Edou recommends super hornet front wishbones and better shocks. are these the wishbones i am looking for and will they fit straight on my old GH?
www.ebay.co.uk/...500wt_1069
next question is what shocks will suit? seems quite difficult to source them, or i am looking in the wrong places.
thanks

ermmmmm maybe just " hopping up a vintage grasshopper " ? or similar. what do you think?

Yes, those are the arms I have on my Hopper also.
I put on the CVAs from the Super Hornet too but these turned out to be a bit too long. I'll measure and look around.
Advantage of these arms is that they are a little wider and they allow for the bottom of a normal shock to bolt on.
A very effective upgrade for the original topic title - the straight line stability.


This is what the CRP set up looks like btw :

agemax wrote:

ermmmmm maybe just " hopping up a vintage grasshopper " ? or similar. what do you think?

Sounds good to me!

Edou wrote:

Yes, those are the arms I have on my Hopper also.
I put on the CVAs from the Super Hornet too but these turned out to be a bit too long. I'll measure and look around.
Advantage of these arms is that they are a little wider and they allow for the bottom of a normal shock to bolt on.
A very effective upgrade for the original topic title - the straight line stability.

This is what the CRP set up looks like btw :

that crp set up looks way cool. is that a different chassis or are the top shock mounts a crp add on?

got the new modified rear bottom shock mounts today, they fit well and look cool. new axle all built with new shafts, gears and bearings.
the new mounts come with pilot holes for the shock ball joints to screw into.
do cva shocks use the same size ball joints as the standard steering ball joints or are they different, if so where can i get them?

agemax wrote:

that crp set up looks way cool. is that a different chassis or are the top shock mounts a crp add on?

They are part of the CRP kit. The normal shock towers need to be taken off the chassis and the body modified to fit it...

Concerning your CVA question - not sure which ball connector fits exactly (I've been using king pin type connections myself) but a set of CVAs comes with a pair of them at least.
For "basic" fitting, Tamiya ball connectors are usually either 4mm or 5mm.
Grasshopper steering uses 4mm connectors. I think here they might be using the 5mm variant.

Results of a bit of research...
The Super Hornet uses 64mm CVAs on the front - a set of 50519 should do the trick.
Possibilities for these are 55mm and 64mm but I don't think these lengths are absolute and can be played with a bit.
I got the longer setting (without spare parts) to work on my G-Hopper.

When using the Super Hornet arms, you will also need some 3mm screws of different lengths.
Don't think you'd have to get the original screw bags. Probably a local hardware store will have them.
I can be more exact if you want but they should about 20-22mm length.
Thinking you also won't have a problem getting or creating the appropriate bushings that might be needed.

Another great upgrade would be to get rid of the play in the original tie rod steering setup and fit some ball ends on the servo and titanium turnbuckles - that will make toe adjustment a piece of cake also.



A bit like this...